Monday, January 28, 2008

t-22 days

It's hard to believe that I've already been on the road for a month! We left the hot, humid and relatively boring world of Phuket (beautiful sand, gorgeous water, but man was it hot!) to chill out in Chiang Mai--the former capital of the Kingdom of Siam.

Since we were feeling the need to have a good bathroom, we sprang for the uber chic boutique hotel D2. Think of all those modern sleek buildings that incorporate 4 colors (black, white, glass, steel), and replace black with dark wood, and steel with orange. It seriously belongs next to the Seattle Library! All the "attendants" wear John Varvartos (or knock off) leather converse low-top sneakers, with loose black pants, white shirts, and orange or black suspenders! It's uber mod. I kinda dig it.
The best part, is that we got 'upgraded' to the suite room (due to a conference) which is bigger than my NYC apartment! ridiculous. And the gym, my goodness, it puts Equinox to shame. (and I never thought that could happen).

After eating the best Pad Thai I've ever had in my life (from a street vendor during the Sunday Walking Street), I also had the worst Pad Thai ever, at the night market last night. Sigh, I guess I can't win them all. After a day of rain (yesterday), we went Elephant Riding! The elephant camp was cool, watching them and their tricks (the elephants are quite hams--circling their trunks to get applause, painting, playing soccer) and lastly, allowing us humans to crawl on their backs for a 'structured' romp through the jungle. At first, our elephant was meandering (we took a tour, and there was a former marine special ops guy from the war who told us never to ride an elephant because they move you all over they place. Apparently, he had to ride one for 2 days to get radio communication... that was one of the many strange, vietnam war stories he had), and we were like "oh this is nothing", then our elephant decided to lead the pack and went for a little saunter.. let's just say it was like being on the high seas.. lots of back of forth.

Today, I ate my way through Chiang Mai. A and I took a full day cooking course, and learned 7 dishes from the sweetest woman in the world. Although she made it look so easy! I'm positive it's going to take me twice as long to make those same dishes at home! She also eased some of my fears about Mae Hong Son, as she exclaimed "oh it's so pretty there! Lot's to do", which is good, since I'll be there for 18 days beginning tomorrow. It'll be a little nerve racking in the morning, since we land and have to find a place to stay--and I have to find a place to say for 3 weeks! eeek! Actually, I think I'm most apprehensive about not having someone to talk to all the time (A is leaving for the states on Friday). Which will be problematic for me, since we all know I talk more than I eat (a feat unto itself).

Chiang Mai also seems to be the expat/tourist capital of the world. There are so many english language bookstores, I'm tempted to purchase a few for reading.. maybe the one entitled "So you meet the perfect Thai girl, what next?"... Yes, seriously, they have a book titled that... Only in Thailand.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

sweating, sweating

So, I'm trying to figure out if I'm sweating due to the heat and humidity in Thailand or due to the spices. Either way, it's not pretty.
After spending a few days in Bangkok riding the new Air Train, seeing buddhas and eating street food, we're now in Phuket.

Street Food: Poor A, all I do when we walk is pause and buy food. I really ought to be a fat rolly polly of a person... My conversations with street vendors are essentially like this:
me: Smile and point, and indicate that I want "one" with my index finger
vendor: starts to talk to me in Thai
me: smile but with a blank look-- "I don't speak thai"
vendor: hands over my goodies, and tells me the price
me: guessing the price (only by looking at their thai signs), I hand them money.

So, those transactions have gone well. But, the most hilarity was in a hole in the wall restaurant where no one spoke any english. I knew from the store front that they made their own noodles... so I asked the waitress for "gai (chicken), eww (noodles) and tom yuan, and used the #2 sign with my fingers to get 2. It turned out well, and it was super tasty and cheap!

Now, after taking a 747 to Phuket (yes, that many people come here!) I can see why people love this place. white sands, blue water and lax attitudes about swim wear (ahhh my eyes!) seem to all be accepted here.

Going to the crab shack tonight (you pay by pound! crusteacean love!)

Monday, January 21, 2008

Thailand here we go!

After spending the last few days lounging on the beach, and eating amazing Goan food (think Portuguese + Indian), and this lobster that is seriously dream inducing, I am now in another food haven--Thailand.

We set off from Mumbai, after a whirlwind 20 hours there (amounting to quick sites, and mostly errands and eating) to arrive in Bangkok. The differences between the two countries is amazing--and I was only reminded more so, during my time in both airports!
Sadly, I must admit (and I feel quite guilty doing so) I was quite happy to be back in an environment where queuing is expected and the norm. Frankly, the pushing, being run over by the luggage cart (you know those ones at the airport? where in the states you pay for them, but they're free elsewhere) as a woman tries to juggle her way to the front of the line at 5am really made me want to scream. Then I was met with the awesome beauty and high tech wonderness that is the Bangkok airport. It was refreshing.

Thus far, I've realized that the US Dollar seems to go a lot further in Bangkok than in India Mostly because there's a market for products that me, as a westerner wants. For the same price as a guest house in Delhi, we're in a swanky hotel with an excessive amount of amenities. The street food price is comparable, taxis are cheaper, and cell phone sim cards are much easier to obtain and cheaper! It's amazing what a little less corruption can do.

After a full day of temples and being mistaken for Thai (Both A and I agree that there's no way I look Thai--not in bone structure and definitely not in dress, or my giant lonely planet book) and having a Thai man admonish me for wearing capri pants, I'm looking forward to more food.

Thus far, it's established that I can't take the heat. the 2 meals so far, were what I would consider 'spicy' and required a bit of help from my lychee drink, and the thais have condiments just filled with Chiles. I'm impressed.
My favorites, thus far, are the smoothies. You can get every fruit on earth (well tropical that is), and I'm in heaven. Mango smoothie (which is essentially the fruit blended with ice), Lychee, Dragon Fruit star Fruit, Passion Fruit. I'm just waiting to find some Durian--the fruit that's banned from planes and trains since it's so stinky!

Looking forward to a cooking class or two, before my return =)

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

doing the hustle

If only it were just a dance and not a transaction...

*****
So, after spending a few days in Varanasi, we find ourselves in Goa... India's equivalent to all things sunny and tropical...

Varanasi was an experience. It's the holiest city in all of India, and seems to have more cows than people! After almost being hustled from the moment we got off the plane (pre paid taxi stand is NOT inside the airport, and they wanted $600rps to get into Varanasi) we finally made our way into the city... all the while, the taxi cab driver trying to figure out how many days we'd be in the city, what we needed to see, etc etc... I get that it's their livelihood and all, and that it's what they need to do, but sometimes, I'm totally over it. Even our hotel approved boat guide tried to bring us to a 'silk shop'... We had to tell him that his tip would be much higher if he hadn't done that... We checked out sarnath, which is the birthplace of buddhism, hung out with monks, and mostly kicked it with the cows. It still amazes me to see cows blocking traffic, or going the opposite direction of traffic and everyone just managing around them.
After Varanasi, we paused in Delhi en route to Goa.. which is tropical paradise. After an evening in a german 'guesthouse', it's not actually german, but it's run by a german woman who seems to only get german guests, we've moved to the 30-something's guesthouse, with better water, and an overall experience... so we'll chill beachside for another 3 days until we head to Mumbai..

As for the hustle, I think it really breaks down as such...
Step 1: Get friendly, ask where from, how long in India, impressions of India
Step 2: Ask how long in the city/area
Step 3: Describe the surroundings, points of interest
Step 4: Mention to tourist that they should see this, or attend that, eat this, etc etc.
Step 5 (when approaching destination): Indicate that you are available to drive tourist to sites at a discounted, non-taxed rate, give mobile number.. or in the case of the shopkeeper, discuss that you know that burning silk smells like hair and offer to burn the sari.. sell sari, scarf, pillow cover... when met with "not interested" begin the whole 'they make great gifts, buy for your wife/mother, etc etc"... and so it goes.

I'm beginning to wonder if I can just tell the rickshaw people "hello,you're driving me for xxx$, if you don't drag me to any shops etc, I will give you an extra $$$"... perhaps a test is in order...

pictures!

India pictures:http://picasaweb.google.com/corachan/IndiaPart1?authkey=bHH7XGvNEWM

Hong Kong Pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/corachan/AdventuresInFood?authkey=1kJWWDADwGM

Friday, January 11, 2008

Honking Explained

After three whirlwind days of sight seeing, including all the typical Delhi tourist sites (red fort, market, mosque, lotus temple, masoleums, etc), and a side trip to Agra for the TAJ MAHAL, I think I'm finally getting adjusted to India. It definitely takes a few days.

The Taj Mahal was amazing, my photos (if I can upload--still haven't found a place that lets me to do that) do not do it justice. You can't see the Taj when you enter the compound, rather, you see a wall, then you walk through and then the next thing you see is this amazing building. It truly is a work of love. The detail in the carvings was breathtaking...
Seeing the Fort in Agra, (where the Shah was imprisoned by his son, yet given a 'cell' where he could always see the Taj) was really cool. It's in much better condition than the Red Fort in Delhi... I blame this as Agra is completely dependent on tourists...

While we were accosted by rickshaws from the moment we got off the train, we thought we'd found a legit guy (pre-paid taxi booth, didn't drag us to the market), but in fact he was still sketchy! After seeing all the sites, with a few hours till our train, he wanted us to see "Agra's handicraft" which was hand made rugs (hello child labour), mosiacs "the artists can only work for 2 hours at a time" (right, and they're not all working for pennies...) and the best part "the beautiful star of Agra" (which is a stone e.g. jewelry store). Geez, I know you get commissions, but I seriously would have paid you more if you'd just left me alone! Oh the joys.

But yes, Honking. So, after observing both the taxis and the rickshaws, I think there's actually a system to this honking. You see, when someone honks, it means both "move your arse!!" , "I'm coming around", "Yield". and for the most part, when one honks at another, the other car/rickshaw yields. It's really quite interesting.

As much as I've gotten used to India, there's one part that I just can't shake--the beggars. There are always beggars everywhere, and I had tried to mentally prepare myself for it, but it really is striking. Particularily in the train station. The children will not only stand in front of you and beg, but what's somewhat alarming, is that they'll touch you. That's what gets me. Or, even reach into a car/rickshaw (which then prompts a chiding from the driver) to try to get to you.. it's intense...

We're off to Varanasi for the next few days, then Goa, Mumbai, and Thailand..

xoxo

Monday, January 7, 2008

00:45... no wait, 01:45...

"They're trying to make it sound like it's only a 1 hour delay, but it's really a 11 hour delay!!!"
Oh Air India, how you suck. After we landed, 12 hours after originally scheduled, our hotel proprietor mentioned that 'you should never fly them again.'

A couple items to note about our flight:
The aircraft appeared to be an 'old' plane, and functioned as such. I swear I was in a time warp back to 1985.... Next, after getting on the plane at 2:30AM, with a full flight of groggy and pissed off people, rather than let everyone sleep, they proceeded to conduct the plane as if it were still flying at it's original 16:15 hour... the lights stayed on, there was food service at 3:30AM, and the best part was--the pilot's rambling.. Now, I don't mind when pilots decide to get on the speakerphone and tell you about so and so city below us, but when it's pitch black outside, what can I really see? and so it went for 6 hours....

As we arrived in Delhi, this is what came over the loudspeaker "Ladies and Gentlemen, flight attendants will now spray the entire cabin with a ministry of health approved spray. It is not hazardous to your health.", Really, not hazardous to my health? What is it? DEET? Air Freshner? What is being sprayed in a tin can that has closed circulation?

Delhi is a sharp contrast to Hong Kong. I'm not sure if routing ourselves through Hong Kong to Delhi was the best option as it's an overwhelming culture shock. Upon arrival, being picked up by our hotel (at a rate far more expensive than a taxi, but peace of mind is well worth the extra money), we dragged our suitcases through throngs of people in the cold fog, sleeping on the street, the tunnel to the parking lot, which turned out to be a gravel area. As all the signs around the airport indicated that 'we are building a world class airport, inconvenience is regretted', I was still shocked by the huge lack of organization. Granted, Delhi is no Hong Kong, but as one of the major entry points to a country that is rapidly promoting tourism, I (wrongly)expected an airport at least comparable to Guatemala City's.....

Driving through the city to our hotel I saw the following on the highway: 3 lanes, which in fact are 6 lanes of cars, a horse drawn carriage, tuk tuk's, people walking across traffic, our driver heading straight for this person and at the last possible second swerving. I think (as A, definitely was), had I not experience Beijing taxi drivers, this type of driving would have shocked me. Although, I'm almost certain that Delhi drivers put Beijing to shame.

After struggling through a hindi language barrier with our host (night host), we contemplated leaving the city. No joke. Feeling very lost, and unable to figure out how one actually gets from place to place (yes, there are 2 metro lines, but they're not near where we're staying), there was a (albiet fleeting) thought, that yes, perhaps, we're just not cut out for India....

Fortunately, after a siesta, we managed to pull ourselves together to visit Khan Market for some essentials (SIM card, travel adapter). I think Khan Market really embodied (what I've seen thus far) and explained Delhi to me. It's Western oriented, filled with modern shops, such as Benneton, Nike, Adidas, yet, there' s still a dirt alley, the building facades look old and worn, yet inside, each place was shiny, bright and modern. My hilarity, was the efficiency of technology used at each of the shops, which was completely absent from the airport....

Today, we'll be touring around all the major sites, and hopefully hammering out the details for the remainder of our trip in India....

Sunday, January 6, 2008

stuck in the airport....

After an eventful 2 days of shopping (Friday was Mong Kok- I don't think A's ever seen that many people out at night), we are now stuck in the HK airport... oh 9 hour delay that was not on the internet... however, we've managed to make a friend via "oh are you waiting to?" which is always fun... in any case, it saves our 'monday where everything is closed in Delhi' as we'll be sleeping upon arrival...

In any case, a recap of the shopping fun

Friday night was fun in Mong Kok, which is on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong... Now, I'll have to post the photos (whenever I actually get somewhere that allows me to do so) in order for you to get an idea of how many people there are. Just think, housing is tiny here, so EVERYONE goes out at night. Especially on a Friday night.. Mong Kok is a huge shopping district, you can find literally everything here... So, while all of the HK under 20 crowd roamed the streets, we hung out with Cousin Andrew.. first we went out for Japanese--where we had some shabu shabu, sashimi, and some other interesting hot plate, cook your own meat sort of thing.. SO TASTY!!

Next, we went on a tour of every single electronics shop in the area in search of the best possible deal for the Canon Sd870 (which we found), and for a cheap international cell phone, and of course, one of the nicest malls in the world. This mall at these incredibly LONG escalators.. essentially, the escalator would skip 3 whole floors at a time. Tons of light, lots of space. If there's anything to be said, HKers love their malls.

The highlight of the night (of course) was the dessert. We went to this dessert house that specializes in only Mango. That's right, Mango pudding with mango ice cream, sprinkled with some coconut; mango slices with tapioca, mango slushie, mango and red bean... Obviously, it was super popular, because in the span of walking around, what was probably a 6 block radius--we passed by 4 of these shops.

Saturday was spent shopping for me... Hitting up the cashmere outlet (as instructed by my 5th auntie), and then walking around Wanchai for the deals, I found some nice stuff... that sadly, will have to stay in the suitcase at poh poh's until I come back from India and Thailand.

Today, unbeknownst to us, and for whatever reason, our 'plane is not in hong kong' so we, along with everyone else on Air India was stuck in the airport... since they never notified us.. I have to say though, of all airports to be stuck in, it's not so bad. Lots of shops to explore (MNG, Bossino, Giordano, Calvin Klein, luggage stores, etc etc). There's also free wi-fi here, which would only be helpful if I'd actually brought my laptop....

Which A and I keep kicking ourselves about. We're both super tempted to find a cheap laptop and just buy it, but sadly, it's not particularily economical... le sigh. Although, macs retail for the same as the US (but only in white, if they had the black macbook, I would seriously consider it).

This past week was insightful... the more I think about it, the more I think I could live in HK and have a blast (and not shop all the time). Overall, its an incredibly convenient city. Much more so than NYC. For all the love I have of NYC, HK beats it for convenience. In every apartment complex, there's at least 1 park n shop, drycleaners, playground, nursery, hair salon, etc, thereby ensuring that one never has to leave the complex... and the metro system.. it runs every 3 minutes during non-peak hours! and the octopus card.. Seriously, someone needs to bring that to the US... the octopus card is this refillable card that you use to pay for your metro (tap on entry and exit), you can purchased things at 7/11, Circle K, drugstores, buses, trolleys, everything. Almost all commonly used 'things' can be paid for with the octopus card. It completely negates the need to carry cash. It's quite nice.

***************
Coffee: So, there is no dearth of starbucks in Hong Kong.. and they even have special flavors like black tea latte, rooibos tea latte, lots of green tea lattes etc etc.. but for whatever reason, when I order a latte here, there is no caffeine. I know I have caffeine tolerance (a la peet's) but seriously? I get sleepier after I drink it!! The same goes for the coffee at pacific coffee too... I suppose it's a good thing, since I need to bring the post-grad school tolerance down to normal....

Krispy Kreme Donuts have miraculously made their way to HK.. as well as Familigia's pizza.. which I find digusting.. but I digress... at Krispy Kreme, they have the most interesting flavors! They call it the "Kreme Hei Fat Choi" (Happy New Year)... There's apple, mandarin orange, black tea twist, green tea twist donuts... I didn't have the muster to try them, but they looked pretty.. and more interesting, the donuts are smaller!!!

Well, all the portion sizes are smaller here.. which might (partially) explain the lack of fat people here. Now, if only the rest of the world (ahem super size america) would consider making all the portion sizes smaller....

Friday, January 4, 2008

ohhh and

If you'd like a postcard mail me your address...

some places are just not to be....

For Starbucks that is... We went to the giant buddha over on Lantau island, and low and behold, at the top where the buddha is, there's a Starbucks... tre reminiscent of the one in the Forbidden City...while I love me some bux, it's a little much when it's at a cultural/religious site.
Buddha was cool, but it doesn't compare with the ones I've seen in China.. but still neat, nonetheless..
The tram ride up (which is apparently new, and costs mucho dinero, but we did it anyways) was gorgeous! amazing views of the water, airport, buddha.... What was most interesting was seeing the route with which they built a trail.. there are no switchbacks, everything just goes straight up! Let's just say, it would be an amazing glute workout.

Next up (For the next 1.5 days) is more eating, and hopefully some shopping at the major 'removal' sales...

***************************
Finalized travel plans:
Delhi: 1/6-11
Varanasi: 1/11-1/12 -->Delhi en route to Jaipur for ??? days... then Goa, then Mumbai...
Arrive in Bangkok on 1/25, chill around Bangkok, beaches, Chiang Mai till 2/1, then up to the mountains....
back in the states 2/20.

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Oh snacks, how I love thee

I am a closet snack freak... well not really a closet snack freak for those of you who have ever seen my pantry....
So, in any case, HK is a delight... Not only did I find my ever elusive Schweppes Grapefruit Soda (hello, Ranch 99 circa 1999-2001 when they actually imported this stuff to the US) at 7-11, I also found my blackberry fruittips (which yes, I can find in the US, but they taste better here!) and also the egg waffle stands... now, I'm just getting fat on my own. HAH!
Ok, the Schweppes has a story... Mostly being that when I couldn't find it in the grocery store or Chinatown, I looked up Schweppes online (US, UK and HK sites) and tried to see if they would ship me a crate... Yes, this is obviously, a little OCD with the snacks... but then again, if I want it, I want it...

And, to top it off, today we went to Yung Kee for their famous Roasted Goose, of which, me and my not paying attention cantonese self, wound up on the VIP floor.. omg, I felt so out of the place. Fortunately, the prices are the same for lunch, but boy did we stick out... It was tasty, not too fatty, but alas, I'm not sure if I would call it 'heaven'.

Yesterday, we spent the day trying to exchange money... Seriously, HK is supposed to be a financial capital, but no Rhuppees to be found!!! Eh, to the airport.


Walking around the city is awesome.. Despite having to turn my head this way and that, I'm so impressed by the overhead skyways, and the metro system..geez, it's so people friendly... or paternalistic... I mean I've always noticed and known that they have doors along the track (no one can be pushed/fall into the track) that only open when the train arrives (could you imagine if they actually did that in the states? the trains would actually have to stop in the same place.. MTA driver's ed)... Then, they organize the stations so well, things are labeled, A,B,C, and there are little descriptions of what's at each exit with their respective streets... I mean, if MTA could actually indicate what's at each exit in addition to the street, I would be so less lost... And cleanliness.. It's almost Singaporean.

In other news, I am seriously missing my crackberry.... Not having email, phone and internet in my pocket is seriously painful... I cannot wait until the day that I can actually carry my phone everywhere I go.. none of this having to ask to unlock the phone, buying new sim cards left and right, geez, it'd be so easy, almost like plane travel!
Other state things, I'm missing: Windows XP (did not think I would actually miss this, but I do), my closet, gchat, indoor heat (yea, they don't heat here, which makes for a cold night)....

Leaving for New Delhi on Sunday, which will definitely be an experience.. Thus far, we've found an Inn in Delhi, planned our trip to Varanasi (Loved the email Frannie!), and have tentatively routed ourselves for Jaipur, Goa and Mumbai... which reminds me, anyone, Mumbai? Yay, Nay? things to do? Seems like it can be done in 1 day or 4 days.... We only have to go there since our flight to Bangkok is from there... which also means, my spoiled comfortable life will be ending shortly... time for the real adventures to begin!

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

15.5 hours later

I seriously blocked out how long the flight is from SF to Hong Kong.... Lucky us, we managed to get a free empty seat between us on the plane... Oh, and the 'ergonomic' seats that I was so excited for on Cathay Pacific are a joke!! They certainly look ergonomic, but are not conducive to sleeping.. but at least they have tv shows, and a variety of movies... I got to catch up on girlie movies (No Reservations anyone? Love Actually?)

After landing, we passed out... after fending off my poh poh and her desire to feed us everything under the moon...

The 1st was filled with food and family....

Dim Sum with the Chan side in WanChai district... which poh-poh insisted that we take the electric trolley to... and also stating that it would only take 30 minutes... not quite... and we got on the wrong trolley, which was kind of hilarious, if only because everyone started to freak out that we were late.... A was a good sport and managed to pack away everything my aunt put on his plate (no cow stomach for him tho!), then we took a tour of the 'old neighborhood', and my aunt pointed out the key "to-do's"
*Won Ton Noodle shop that my dad frequents every time he's in HK (we'll check out that later today)
* Cashmere export shop (i.e. my mum's 'favorite' place)
*prostitutes (what not to do in HK.. )
*Electronics Depot

then we slept it off and decided to eat again,
the giant dinner meal with the Wong side... which of course everything ended up on my plate.. i was seriously contemplating bulimia 1/3 of the way through dinner... If only to make it to the end of the dinner.... But good times all around. my cousins are fun.. they took us to the top of the peak (cold and windy) for an awesome view, then down to Central for drinks.... Of which poh-poh was inquiring about later...

This AM, after convincing my poh-poh that yes, we dont drink milk, and that no her maid didn't break the shower I did (to no avail, that poor woman can do no right), which was then fixed we finally made it out of the house...

HK's been fun so far. I think it's been really interesting noting the class and cultural differences here... (more later), which I'm sure I'll see more of in India...