It's funny how, at the start of all vacations (particularily the long ones) I'm always spazzing out about "can I do this? Can I really go away for 8 weeks? am I going to drive myself insane with just me, myself, and I to talk to? (this is the past 3 weeks)" and then, when it's time to start heading back, I start missing the thought of travel.
As I embark on the last leg of my journey (Hong Kong), it's crazy to think that I've been gone as long (or little) as 8 weeks. I've practically bypassed winter! Don't get me wrong, I'm super excited for a burrito and burger, but I'm also really sad that my adventure is coming to a close.
The last few days were comprised of the following:
-Being complimented by Thais, that the little Thai I've picked up, I 'sound like a real Thai'
-Helping to film some Thai friends' "Amazing Race Asia" video... we made them eat a grasshopper!
-Realizing that no matter where I am, I am truly a shopaholic.. and that's unwise to unleash me into a market with over 15,000 stands with no chaperone (I had to sit on my suitcase this morning). It's really quite remarkable what one can purchase for $80USD.
-Wearing my "NYC Face" (you know we all have those--it's the subway face "don't talk to me") and being asked by a Thai guy (who touched me!!) "why are you sad?!?" le sigh
-Being appalled, disgusted, and judgemental (I know, I shouldn't judge) by the massive number of farang/thai girl/boy relationships I've seen in Bangkok in the last 2 days (if it's true love, sure, but when the Thai person has limited english/2nd language skills, I tend to wonder). It really disturbs me how prevalent and open the(sex) relationship trade is here. I understand that it is about economic opportunity for many of these people, but the sheer delight that's on the farang's face, is, to put it bluntly, kind of gross.
-Thinking about all the food I'm going to eat when I get back to the states... and then thinking about how many calories I've consumed on this trip, without any exercise (I really thought I was going to get sick on this trip so I could get rid of the holiday/finals calories!)...and then thinking how I should go for a run (albeit, a slow snail's crawl run) the minute I get back to the states... and how a gym membership might be in order.
-Trying to figure out the names of Thai popstars, so I too, can continue to "quiver" in the states (a coffee morning joke)
-Realizing that all the thai food I thought was good in the states, is probably NOT that good.. and definitely without enough heat... which just means I'm going to have to keep sampling.. oh food, how I love thee.
time for some last minute fun.
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Friday, February 15, 2008
Adventures on the vomit comet
So, after a fun filled week with the hippies, I'm back in MHS for the last leg of my trip (To fly to Bangkok and then HK)...
Thus far, in Pai, I've managed to make an arse out of myself, with the following:
1) Slipping/tripping/eating it on my arse 3x (this includes tripping in water and falling, almost breaking my foot again by missteping, and almost tripping down the side of the hill when walking in the dark to one of the houses to gather data)
2) Screaming at the sight of a gecko over my pillow (on the wall), and then deciding to move the entire mattress from the loft to the floor
3) Almost drooling on myself while waiting at the bus station to go back to MHS, since I took the dramamine on time, but the bus was late.
After collecting data on over 100 persons in the last 2 weeks, I'm really excited about the possibility of doing follow ups out here! Maybe it's a little overly ambitious, but still, how cool would that be?
Pai was interesting. While we had some amazing food opportunities (Mint Lime Honey Shake, Passion Fruit/Strawberry/Mango shake from the fruit factory), there were also a lot of busts. Sadly, due to the high volume of farang there, there's a lot of farang-ish food (i.e. no flavor). I have a feeling this is going to get worse as I return to the states and think that what was once 'great' thai food, is now only mediocre. le sigh.
Thus far, in Pai, I've managed to make an arse out of myself, with the following:
1) Slipping/tripping/eating it on my arse 3x (this includes tripping in water and falling, almost breaking my foot again by missteping, and almost tripping down the side of the hill when walking in the dark to one of the houses to gather data)
2) Screaming at the sight of a gecko over my pillow (on the wall), and then deciding to move the entire mattress from the loft to the floor
3) Almost drooling on myself while waiting at the bus station to go back to MHS, since I took the dramamine on time, but the bus was late.
After collecting data on over 100 persons in the last 2 weeks, I'm really excited about the possibility of doing follow ups out here! Maybe it's a little overly ambitious, but still, how cool would that be?
Pai was interesting. While we had some amazing food opportunities (Mint Lime Honey Shake, Passion Fruit/Strawberry/Mango shake from the fruit factory), there were also a lot of busts. Sadly, due to the high volume of farang there, there's a lot of farang-ish food (i.e. no flavor). I have a feeling this is going to get worse as I return to the states and think that what was once 'great' thai food, is now only mediocre. le sigh.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Hippie Capital of the world
I'm in Pai, which is known as the hippie capital of Thailand, but it feels a lot more like the hippie capital of the world. First things first, I don't like hippies. I reserve this right since I grew up in Berkeley, the bastion of all things hippie (and sometimes extremely un-liberal (hello trying to kick out the marine recruiting center... don't get me started on that one) and I really, really, really hate dirty, smelly, ugly things. Which is pretty much what I'm getting here--hundredfold.
It's essentially a bunch of Thai hippies, mixed with the dirty western(er) hippies who all come here to play their guitars, and sit around and 'chill man'. They also seem to want to talk to me, and I'm so not keen on that (especially the "how is your coffee?" (which I internally say "f-off" but politely respond "fine").
In any case, we're out here to measure and survey the Shan community. There are a lot of Shan here since there's farming and a whole lot of construction jobs (the more hippies that come, the more guesthouses that are built, as camping/sleeping on the street is a hefty fine). In any case, last night we went to the first community and managed to weigh, gather height, bp information, survey questions, of about 20 folks all in hopes of comparing these results of an undocumented, unrecognized refugee population with that of the 'normal' thai population. We are definitely a sight to see: 2 westerners, hanging out with a Thai monk (who is helping us translate) with migrant laborers. There was a farang couple wandering around the village who looked particularly interested in our group.
I will say that Pai is an interesting place of integration. I'm shocked by how many muslims there are mixed in with the hippie who's baring her butt crack (shocking image and sooo unncessary, underpants are cheap in Thailand), and Chinese! We found a tasty little congee shop selling Thai food, and the woman happened to Hunnanese.. she asked me where I was from (with the usual confusion regarding a chinese american from America not China) and then started speaking to me in Mandarin, and I responded in Cantonese.. it was amusing. The farang bars and restaurants all co-exist with the local bars and restaurants, unlike most other cities that have a large number of visitors.. We know this, New Yorkers hate Time Square, and San Franciscan's loathe Fisherman's Wharf... yet here (although I have no idea if the Pai'an's hate the farang--though I don't doubt it), everything is right next to each other.. In any case, it is absolutely gorgeous here (and hot!). The scenery between MHS and Pai is just mountains, mountains and more mountains (although the bus ride was a vomit comet), filled with farm land.
It's essentially a bunch of Thai hippies, mixed with the dirty western(er) hippies who all come here to play their guitars, and sit around and 'chill man'. They also seem to want to talk to me, and I'm so not keen on that (especially the "how is your coffee?" (which I internally say "f-off" but politely respond "fine").
In any case, we're out here to measure and survey the Shan community. There are a lot of Shan here since there's farming and a whole lot of construction jobs (the more hippies that come, the more guesthouses that are built, as camping/sleeping on the street is a hefty fine). In any case, last night we went to the first community and managed to weigh, gather height, bp information, survey questions, of about 20 folks all in hopes of comparing these results of an undocumented, unrecognized refugee population with that of the 'normal' thai population. We are definitely a sight to see: 2 westerners, hanging out with a Thai monk (who is helping us translate) with migrant laborers. There was a farang couple wandering around the village who looked particularly interested in our group.
I will say that Pai is an interesting place of integration. I'm shocked by how many muslims there are mixed in with the hippie who's baring her butt crack (shocking image and sooo unncessary, underpants are cheap in Thailand), and Chinese! We found a tasty little congee shop selling Thai food, and the woman happened to Hunnanese.. she asked me where I was from (with the usual confusion regarding a chinese american from America not China) and then started speaking to me in Mandarin, and I responded in Cantonese.. it was amusing. The farang bars and restaurants all co-exist with the local bars and restaurants, unlike most other cities that have a large number of visitors.. We know this, New Yorkers hate Time Square, and San Franciscan's loathe Fisherman's Wharf... yet here (although I have no idea if the Pai'an's hate the farang--though I don't doubt it), everything is right next to each other.. In any case, it is absolutely gorgeous here (and hot!). The scenery between MHS and Pai is just mountains, mountains and more mountains (although the bus ride was a vomit comet), filled with farm land.
Friday, February 8, 2008
Fiery Fierceness
Is what I would describe the mosquitoes here. These suckers love to bite... I will definitely not miss them.
After spending the past week and a half in Mae Hong Son, I can see why my professor heads back here every year for 3 months. It's an idyllic life. In a town that adheres to the "early to bed, late to rise" philosophy, I'm ensured 8 hours of rest a night. I'm definitely banking this in preparation for my return to the Western world. My day consists of 1)breakfast and email checking at 1 of 3 local cafes (morning decision = muesli + coffee = Sawadee cafe; bagel + cafe=Cafe Morning; amazing cappucino=cute cafe with no discerning name next to the lake; or, in the event of a morning bike ride = 7/11 for chau sei bao). Next, I will either go for a 2 hour bike ride or we'll go visit a village to do health screenings... The afternoon is spent at the coffee shop, then grant writing... Dinner is lakeside, or at one of the many restaurants, and dessert is 1 of 3 things: the newly discovered ice cream shop, the sweet soybean stand, or roti's with the burmese refugee who happens to have a penchant for whiskey. Then I'm in my room with bbc at 10pm!
These past few days, I've been interviewing the OPC director and office manager to discern key facts for the grant writing process. Unfortunately, I've stumbled into what qualitative academics call "amazing management research." The personality conflict that's brewing at and below the surface is really starting to become clear--sadly, I am not a therapist, nor a qualitative researcher... But, what is apparent, is that there is no clear direction at the orphanage. While the children are schooled, housed, and fed, no other needs are attended to, posing huge development problems. Obviously, this is a western view of things. Given that these children are all refugees, all lacking stable homes and/or parents, their basics are covered. Unfortunately, we (being westerners) know that it does take more than the physical to nurture children and to get them to 'thrive'. I don't doubt the commitment of the project director to the children and the surrounding community (sadly, the community is far too reliant on him for monetary donations and assistance, to the point that I would call "abuse" and the 'savior' mentality is still too dominating for him to cut the umbilical cord), but it's obvious there needs to be more. The kids are adorable--while 27 of them live under the care of 3 caretakers, and 1 has TB (non-infectious) and 1 is HIV positive (from his mother), they are remarkably fun. The orphanage is next to a river, which serves as their play /bathing/washing area, and with only a few sets of clothes, and almost no direction (it doesn't appear like anyone tells them to do homework), and only have contact 1-2/x year with their relatives, they're so vibrant.
Most of the children are ethnic Shan, thereby existing in Thailand as unrecognized refugees since they don't qualify to live in refugee camps (and if they did, they've be called 'hill tribes' and have 0 access to anything), and most lack papers. So while, international law governs that all children have access to education, and basic health care (i.e. basic human rights per the 1952 UN refugee accord), they don't have those rights and are routinely denied access by local officials. As I work on a grant, and examine the financial statements, I'm amazed by how much of the budget is allocated to 'school/teacher fees', which are essentially bribes. Although, the upside is that they payments work, all the children are enrolled in school.
In addition to the grant writing, I find myself working on a research study with a fellow columbia (soon to be) alum. We're trying to examine the differences in physical development of these refugees relative to Thai norms, and whether or not the mental stress of refugee status affects their social and mental development. I must say, that as much as I try to run away from research, it always seems to find me.
Another week or so of the simple life--then it's back to the madness of the west!
After spending the past week and a half in Mae Hong Son, I can see why my professor heads back here every year for 3 months. It's an idyllic life. In a town that adheres to the "early to bed, late to rise" philosophy, I'm ensured 8 hours of rest a night. I'm definitely banking this in preparation for my return to the Western world. My day consists of 1)breakfast and email checking at 1 of 3 local cafes (morning decision = muesli + coffee = Sawadee cafe; bagel + cafe=Cafe Morning; amazing cappucino=cute cafe with no discerning name next to the lake; or, in the event of a morning bike ride = 7/11 for chau sei bao). Next, I will either go for a 2 hour bike ride or we'll go visit a village to do health screenings... The afternoon is spent at the coffee shop, then grant writing... Dinner is lakeside, or at one of the many restaurants, and dessert is 1 of 3 things: the newly discovered ice cream shop, the sweet soybean stand, or roti's with the burmese refugee who happens to have a penchant for whiskey. Then I'm in my room with bbc at 10pm!
These past few days, I've been interviewing the OPC director and office manager to discern key facts for the grant writing process. Unfortunately, I've stumbled into what qualitative academics call "amazing management research." The personality conflict that's brewing at and below the surface is really starting to become clear--sadly, I am not a therapist, nor a qualitative researcher... But, what is apparent, is that there is no clear direction at the orphanage. While the children are schooled, housed, and fed, no other needs are attended to, posing huge development problems. Obviously, this is a western view of things. Given that these children are all refugees, all lacking stable homes and/or parents, their basics are covered. Unfortunately, we (being westerners) know that it does take more than the physical to nurture children and to get them to 'thrive'. I don't doubt the commitment of the project director to the children and the surrounding community (sadly, the community is far too reliant on him for monetary donations and assistance, to the point that I would call "abuse" and the 'savior' mentality is still too dominating for him to cut the umbilical cord), but it's obvious there needs to be more. The kids are adorable--while 27 of them live under the care of 3 caretakers, and 1 has TB (non-infectious) and 1 is HIV positive (from his mother), they are remarkably fun. The orphanage is next to a river, which serves as their play /bathing/washing area, and with only a few sets of clothes, and almost no direction (it doesn't appear like anyone tells them to do homework), and only have contact 1-2/x year with their relatives, they're so vibrant.
Most of the children are ethnic Shan, thereby existing in Thailand as unrecognized refugees since they don't qualify to live in refugee camps (and if they did, they've be called 'hill tribes' and have 0 access to anything), and most lack papers. So while, international law governs that all children have access to education, and basic health care (i.e. basic human rights per the 1952 UN refugee accord), they don't have those rights and are routinely denied access by local officials. As I work on a grant, and examine the financial statements, I'm amazed by how much of the budget is allocated to 'school/teacher fees', which are essentially bribes. Although, the upside is that they payments work, all the children are enrolled in school.
In addition to the grant writing, I find myself working on a research study with a fellow columbia (soon to be) alum. We're trying to examine the differences in physical development of these refugees relative to Thai norms, and whether or not the mental stress of refugee status affects their social and mental development. I must say, that as much as I try to run away from research, it always seems to find me.
Another week or so of the simple life--then it's back to the madness of the west!
Monday, February 4, 2008
3 days in...
Thus far, OPC's been interesting. It's always neat to see how something's grown organically, but also as an outsider, to see its faults. On Saturday, we went to interview some of the students who are receiving scholarships from the BRP/OPC collaboration. These are all Burmese refugee children, all of whom are either orphans, from broken homes, or single parent homes. We met two boys, who are ethnically Shan, but were carried over the border when they were younger. Both are in Grade 9, at a local boarding school outside of MHS. We were conducting the interviews in order to send the reports back to their sponsors.
So far, education is much cheaper than in China, and what's unique about the scholarships, is that they're not 100% scholarships (needs assessments are done--some are 100%, but are atypical). The idea behind this is to encourage students to see the value in their education--because it's not a hand out. They have to work for additional funding (which can be done as labor with the organization or a lot of the students work in the garlic fields during their holidays to make up the difference). It seems to be working. In any case, the poor children were petrified of us farang (foreigners) with our laptops asking innocuous questions like "so what's your favorite subject?, what do you want to be when you get older?". As dire as their situation is (some of these kids are here on special visas that don't really provide them with the option to legally work in Thailand), they remain optimistic, which is awesome.
Another girl we interviewed, is currently at the equivalent of Jr. College, studying accounting, and is taking care of her younger siblings, and hoping to be an accountant. For her, she was really concerned whether or not if she wanted to pursue a 4 year degree (and she does) whether or not we would be able to find funding to subsidize her studies.
Today, we took a 2 hour drive up to the burmese border (we couldn't cross) to meet with the KMT village. Apparently, there are a lot of former KMT soldiers living in the hills of Thailand as they tried to escape the communists.
We then met with a small, poor Shan community (elderly) that the project director of OPC tries to help. Unfortunately, it was a classic case of how not to manage a relationship. The root of which, lies in the cultural and communication barriers between people. OPC provided pigs to the community in the hopes of them raising the piggies, selling them, etc, and ensuring a livelihood. Instead, the community ate the pigs, and were now asking for more pigs/money. This is the struggle of NGO's - how to gain population participation and get them to see the long-term, big picture of self-sustainability, versus that of immediate gains. Sadly, this problem exists in ALL types of organizations.
Which is why the scholarship part of the organization seems to do so well. It actually makes the student 'own' a part of their education. Now, if we can just teach them that pigs don't grow on trees....
So far, education is much cheaper than in China, and what's unique about the scholarships, is that they're not 100% scholarships (needs assessments are done--some are 100%, but are atypical). The idea behind this is to encourage students to see the value in their education--because it's not a hand out. They have to work for additional funding (which can be done as labor with the organization or a lot of the students work in the garlic fields during their holidays to make up the difference). It seems to be working. In any case, the poor children were petrified of us farang (foreigners) with our laptops asking innocuous questions like "so what's your favorite subject?, what do you want to be when you get older?". As dire as their situation is (some of these kids are here on special visas that don't really provide them with the option to legally work in Thailand), they remain optimistic, which is awesome.
Another girl we interviewed, is currently at the equivalent of Jr. College, studying accounting, and is taking care of her younger siblings, and hoping to be an accountant. For her, she was really concerned whether or not if she wanted to pursue a 4 year degree (and she does) whether or not we would be able to find funding to subsidize her studies.
Today, we took a 2 hour drive up to the burmese border (we couldn't cross) to meet with the KMT village. Apparently, there are a lot of former KMT soldiers living in the hills of Thailand as they tried to escape the communists.
We then met with a small, poor Shan community (elderly) that the project director of OPC tries to help. Unfortunately, it was a classic case of how not to manage a relationship. The root of which, lies in the cultural and communication barriers between people. OPC provided pigs to the community in the hopes of them raising the piggies, selling them, etc, and ensuring a livelihood. Instead, the community ate the pigs, and were now asking for more pigs/money. This is the struggle of NGO's - how to gain population participation and get them to see the long-term, big picture of self-sustainability, versus that of immediate gains. Sadly, this problem exists in ALL types of organizations.
Which is why the scholarship part of the organization seems to do so well. It actually makes the student 'own' a part of their education. Now, if we can just teach them that pigs don't grow on trees....
Friday, February 1, 2008
OPC
So, after the shortest flight ever (25 minutes) that even served a snack (oh Thai Airways, you are the best), I've arrived in MHS. Or as A describes it, "I'm here to drop you off in the most remote, NW corner of Thailand!" Although, I can actually head a little bit further NW before running into Burma.
Thus far, we've been hit with heavy rains (those same ones that are causing all snow in china), but fortunately, the rain means that there's clean air (rather than smoke filled air). The town isn't quite as 'middle of nowhere' as I thought it'd be--there is a 7/11, internet cafes, but overall its incredibly mellow, with very few cars. After running into my prof at the same guesthouse (I decided to stay there, and out he came! which makes it uber convenient), I'm starting to get a feel for what I'll be doing for the next 2 weeks.
So, I'm working with Opportunity for Poor Children (OPC) a local NGO (although not legally recognized as such, since that requires paperwork, money, and random checks by the police) that works as an orphanage, learning center, and all around resource center for the surrounding Shan and hill tribes. These groups live in the mountains of Thailand as refugees, but without refugee status. Considered 'land-less' and pushed out of their native areas (Burma), they are allowed to live on the land, but can't receive social services or education. Pretty much, they're just allowed to exist. While some are able to obtain yearly work permits, those are few and far between. And even the social services that are provided (if you have the work permit) are often inadequate or require bribes. And, if you're burmese (and there are a lot more here after the September protests) you're pretty much SOL. These groups suffer from the same problems as other marginalized persons (drug and alcohol abuse, teen pregnancy, inadequate vocational training and education, thereby creating a nasty life cycle) despite living in the 'wilderness'. Thus far, I've heard stories about the crazy Farang (foreigner) who came to OPC under the guise of 'helping the orphans', but really created a huge mess by calling the cops on the director (they told the cops that he was hiding burmese refugees)and getting him arrested, which then cost the organization a lot of time, energy and money.
Right now, it looks like I'll be working on grant applications (they operate on close to $35k/year) to secure more funding for education scholarships and health work, and heading out into the field with another medical volunteer to do health assessments with the tribes.
It's kind of nice to be somewhere with a purpose.
Thus far, we've been hit with heavy rains (those same ones that are causing all snow in china), but fortunately, the rain means that there's clean air (rather than smoke filled air). The town isn't quite as 'middle of nowhere' as I thought it'd be--there is a 7/11, internet cafes, but overall its incredibly mellow, with very few cars. After running into my prof at the same guesthouse (I decided to stay there, and out he came! which makes it uber convenient), I'm starting to get a feel for what I'll be doing for the next 2 weeks.
So, I'm working with Opportunity for Poor Children (OPC) a local NGO (although not legally recognized as such, since that requires paperwork, money, and random checks by the police) that works as an orphanage, learning center, and all around resource center for the surrounding Shan and hill tribes. These groups live in the mountains of Thailand as refugees, but without refugee status. Considered 'land-less' and pushed out of their native areas (Burma), they are allowed to live on the land, but can't receive social services or education. Pretty much, they're just allowed to exist. While some are able to obtain yearly work permits, those are few and far between. And even the social services that are provided (if you have the work permit) are often inadequate or require bribes. And, if you're burmese (and there are a lot more here after the September protests) you're pretty much SOL. These groups suffer from the same problems as other marginalized persons (drug and alcohol abuse, teen pregnancy, inadequate vocational training and education, thereby creating a nasty life cycle) despite living in the 'wilderness'. Thus far, I've heard stories about the crazy Farang (foreigner) who came to OPC under the guise of 'helping the orphans', but really created a huge mess by calling the cops on the director (they told the cops that he was hiding burmese refugees)and getting him arrested, which then cost the organization a lot of time, energy and money.
Right now, it looks like I'll be working on grant applications (they operate on close to $35k/year) to secure more funding for education scholarships and health work, and heading out into the field with another medical volunteer to do health assessments with the tribes.
It's kind of nice to be somewhere with a purpose.
Monday, January 28, 2008
t-22 days
It's hard to believe that I've already been on the road for a month! We left the hot, humid and relatively boring world of Phuket (beautiful sand, gorgeous water, but man was it hot!) to chill out in Chiang Mai--the former capital of the Kingdom of Siam.
Since we were feeling the need to have a good bathroom, we sprang for the uber chic boutique hotel D2. Think of all those modern sleek buildings that incorporate 4 colors (black, white, glass, steel), and replace black with dark wood, and steel with orange. It seriously belongs next to the Seattle Library! All the "attendants" wear John Varvartos (or knock off) leather converse low-top sneakers, with loose black pants, white shirts, and orange or black suspenders! It's uber mod. I kinda dig it.
The best part, is that we got 'upgraded' to the suite room (due to a conference) which is bigger than my NYC apartment! ridiculous. And the gym, my goodness, it puts Equinox to shame. (and I never thought that could happen).
After eating the best Pad Thai I've ever had in my life (from a street vendor during the Sunday Walking Street), I also had the worst Pad Thai ever, at the night market last night. Sigh, I guess I can't win them all. After a day of rain (yesterday), we went Elephant Riding! The elephant camp was cool, watching them and their tricks (the elephants are quite hams--circling their trunks to get applause, painting, playing soccer) and lastly, allowing us humans to crawl on their backs for a 'structured' romp through the jungle. At first, our elephant was meandering (we took a tour, and there was a former marine special ops guy from the war who told us never to ride an elephant because they move you all over they place. Apparently, he had to ride one for 2 days to get radio communication... that was one of the many strange, vietnam war stories he had), and we were like "oh this is nothing", then our elephant decided to lead the pack and went for a little saunter.. let's just say it was like being on the high seas.. lots of back of forth.
Today, I ate my way through Chiang Mai. A and I took a full day cooking course, and learned 7 dishes from the sweetest woman in the world. Although she made it look so easy! I'm positive it's going to take me twice as long to make those same dishes at home! She also eased some of my fears about Mae Hong Son, as she exclaimed "oh it's so pretty there! Lot's to do", which is good, since I'll be there for 18 days beginning tomorrow. It'll be a little nerve racking in the morning, since we land and have to find a place to stay--and I have to find a place to say for 3 weeks! eeek! Actually, I think I'm most apprehensive about not having someone to talk to all the time (A is leaving for the states on Friday). Which will be problematic for me, since we all know I talk more than I eat (a feat unto itself).
Chiang Mai also seems to be the expat/tourist capital of the world. There are so many english language bookstores, I'm tempted to purchase a few for reading.. maybe the one entitled "So you meet the perfect Thai girl, what next?"... Yes, seriously, they have a book titled that... Only in Thailand.
Since we were feeling the need to have a good bathroom, we sprang for the uber chic boutique hotel D2. Think of all those modern sleek buildings that incorporate 4 colors (black, white, glass, steel), and replace black with dark wood, and steel with orange. It seriously belongs next to the Seattle Library! All the "attendants" wear John Varvartos (or knock off) leather converse low-top sneakers, with loose black pants, white shirts, and orange or black suspenders! It's uber mod. I kinda dig it.
The best part, is that we got 'upgraded' to the suite room (due to a conference) which is bigger than my NYC apartment! ridiculous. And the gym, my goodness, it puts Equinox to shame. (and I never thought that could happen).
After eating the best Pad Thai I've ever had in my life (from a street vendor during the Sunday Walking Street), I also had the worst Pad Thai ever, at the night market last night. Sigh, I guess I can't win them all. After a day of rain (yesterday), we went Elephant Riding! The elephant camp was cool, watching them and their tricks (the elephants are quite hams--circling their trunks to get applause, painting, playing soccer) and lastly, allowing us humans to crawl on their backs for a 'structured' romp through the jungle. At first, our elephant was meandering (we took a tour, and there was a former marine special ops guy from the war who told us never to ride an elephant because they move you all over they place. Apparently, he had to ride one for 2 days to get radio communication... that was one of the many strange, vietnam war stories he had), and we were like "oh this is nothing", then our elephant decided to lead the pack and went for a little saunter.. let's just say it was like being on the high seas.. lots of back of forth.
Today, I ate my way through Chiang Mai. A and I took a full day cooking course, and learned 7 dishes from the sweetest woman in the world. Although she made it look so easy! I'm positive it's going to take me twice as long to make those same dishes at home! She also eased some of my fears about Mae Hong Son, as she exclaimed "oh it's so pretty there! Lot's to do", which is good, since I'll be there for 18 days beginning tomorrow. It'll be a little nerve racking in the morning, since we land and have to find a place to stay--and I have to find a place to say for 3 weeks! eeek! Actually, I think I'm most apprehensive about not having someone to talk to all the time (A is leaving for the states on Friday). Which will be problematic for me, since we all know I talk more than I eat (a feat unto itself).
Chiang Mai also seems to be the expat/tourist capital of the world. There are so many english language bookstores, I'm tempted to purchase a few for reading.. maybe the one entitled "So you meet the perfect Thai girl, what next?"... Yes, seriously, they have a book titled that... Only in Thailand.
Thursday, January 24, 2008
sweating, sweating
So, I'm trying to figure out if I'm sweating due to the heat and humidity in Thailand or due to the spices. Either way, it's not pretty.
After spending a few days in Bangkok riding the new Air Train, seeing buddhas and eating street food, we're now in Phuket.
Street Food: Poor A, all I do when we walk is pause and buy food. I really ought to be a fat rolly polly of a person... My conversations with street vendors are essentially like this:
me: Smile and point, and indicate that I want "one" with my index finger
vendor: starts to talk to me in Thai
me: smile but with a blank look-- "I don't speak thai"
vendor: hands over my goodies, and tells me the price
me: guessing the price (only by looking at their thai signs), I hand them money.
So, those transactions have gone well. But, the most hilarity was in a hole in the wall restaurant where no one spoke any english. I knew from the store front that they made their own noodles... so I asked the waitress for "gai (chicken), eww (noodles) and tom yuan, and used the #2 sign with my fingers to get 2. It turned out well, and it was super tasty and cheap!
Now, after taking a 747 to Phuket (yes, that many people come here!) I can see why people love this place. white sands, blue water and lax attitudes about swim wear (ahhh my eyes!) seem to all be accepted here.
Going to the crab shack tonight (you pay by pound! crusteacean love!)
After spending a few days in Bangkok riding the new Air Train, seeing buddhas and eating street food, we're now in Phuket.
Street Food: Poor A, all I do when we walk is pause and buy food. I really ought to be a fat rolly polly of a person... My conversations with street vendors are essentially like this:
me: Smile and point, and indicate that I want "one" with my index finger
vendor: starts to talk to me in Thai
me: smile but with a blank look-- "I don't speak thai"
vendor: hands over my goodies, and tells me the price
me: guessing the price (only by looking at their thai signs), I hand them money.
So, those transactions have gone well. But, the most hilarity was in a hole in the wall restaurant where no one spoke any english. I knew from the store front that they made their own noodles... so I asked the waitress for "gai (chicken), eww (noodles) and tom yuan, and used the #2 sign with my fingers to get 2. It turned out well, and it was super tasty and cheap!
Now, after taking a 747 to Phuket (yes, that many people come here!) I can see why people love this place. white sands, blue water and lax attitudes about swim wear (ahhh my eyes!) seem to all be accepted here.
Going to the crab shack tonight (you pay by pound! crusteacean love!)
Monday, January 21, 2008
Thailand here we go!
After spending the last few days lounging on the beach, and eating amazing Goan food (think Portuguese + Indian), and this lobster that is seriously dream inducing, I am now in another food haven--Thailand.
We set off from Mumbai, after a whirlwind 20 hours there (amounting to quick sites, and mostly errands and eating) to arrive in Bangkok. The differences between the two countries is amazing--and I was only reminded more so, during my time in both airports!
Sadly, I must admit (and I feel quite guilty doing so) I was quite happy to be back in an environment where queuing is expected and the norm. Frankly, the pushing, being run over by the luggage cart (you know those ones at the airport? where in the states you pay for them, but they're free elsewhere) as a woman tries to juggle her way to the front of the line at 5am really made me want to scream. Then I was met with the awesome beauty and high tech wonderness that is the Bangkok airport. It was refreshing.
Thus far, I've realized that the US Dollar seems to go a lot further in Bangkok than in India Mostly because there's a market for products that me, as a westerner wants. For the same price as a guest house in Delhi, we're in a swanky hotel with an excessive amount of amenities. The street food price is comparable, taxis are cheaper, and cell phone sim cards are much easier to obtain and cheaper! It's amazing what a little less corruption can do.
After a full day of temples and being mistaken for Thai (Both A and I agree that there's no way I look Thai--not in bone structure and definitely not in dress, or my giant lonely planet book) and having a Thai man admonish me for wearing capri pants, I'm looking forward to more food.
Thus far, it's established that I can't take the heat. the 2 meals so far, were what I would consider 'spicy' and required a bit of help from my lychee drink, and the thais have condiments just filled with Chiles. I'm impressed.
My favorites, thus far, are the smoothies. You can get every fruit on earth (well tropical that is), and I'm in heaven. Mango smoothie (which is essentially the fruit blended with ice), Lychee, Dragon Fruit star Fruit, Passion Fruit. I'm just waiting to find some Durian--the fruit that's banned from planes and trains since it's so stinky!
Looking forward to a cooking class or two, before my return =)
We set off from Mumbai, after a whirlwind 20 hours there (amounting to quick sites, and mostly errands and eating) to arrive in Bangkok. The differences between the two countries is amazing--and I was only reminded more so, during my time in both airports!
Sadly, I must admit (and I feel quite guilty doing so) I was quite happy to be back in an environment where queuing is expected and the norm. Frankly, the pushing, being run over by the luggage cart (you know those ones at the airport? where in the states you pay for them, but they're free elsewhere) as a woman tries to juggle her way to the front of the line at 5am really made me want to scream. Then I was met with the awesome beauty and high tech wonderness that is the Bangkok airport. It was refreshing.
Thus far, I've realized that the US Dollar seems to go a lot further in Bangkok than in India Mostly because there's a market for products that me, as a westerner wants. For the same price as a guest house in Delhi, we're in a swanky hotel with an excessive amount of amenities. The street food price is comparable, taxis are cheaper, and cell phone sim cards are much easier to obtain and cheaper! It's amazing what a little less corruption can do.
After a full day of temples and being mistaken for Thai (Both A and I agree that there's no way I look Thai--not in bone structure and definitely not in dress, or my giant lonely planet book) and having a Thai man admonish me for wearing capri pants, I'm looking forward to more food.
Thus far, it's established that I can't take the heat. the 2 meals so far, were what I would consider 'spicy' and required a bit of help from my lychee drink, and the thais have condiments just filled with Chiles. I'm impressed.
My favorites, thus far, are the smoothies. You can get every fruit on earth (well tropical that is), and I'm in heaven. Mango smoothie (which is essentially the fruit blended with ice), Lychee, Dragon Fruit star Fruit, Passion Fruit. I'm just waiting to find some Durian--the fruit that's banned from planes and trains since it's so stinky!
Looking forward to a cooking class or two, before my return =)
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
doing the hustle
If only it were just a dance and not a transaction...
*****
So, after spending a few days in Varanasi, we find ourselves in Goa... India's equivalent to all things sunny and tropical...
Varanasi was an experience. It's the holiest city in all of India, and seems to have more cows than people! After almost being hustled from the moment we got off the plane (pre paid taxi stand is NOT inside the airport, and they wanted $600rps to get into Varanasi) we finally made our way into the city... all the while, the taxi cab driver trying to figure out how many days we'd be in the city, what we needed to see, etc etc... I get that it's their livelihood and all, and that it's what they need to do, but sometimes, I'm totally over it. Even our hotel approved boat guide tried to bring us to a 'silk shop'... We had to tell him that his tip would be much higher if he hadn't done that... We checked out sarnath, which is the birthplace of buddhism, hung out with monks, and mostly kicked it with the cows. It still amazes me to see cows blocking traffic, or going the opposite direction of traffic and everyone just managing around them.
After Varanasi, we paused in Delhi en route to Goa.. which is tropical paradise. After an evening in a german 'guesthouse', it's not actually german, but it's run by a german woman who seems to only get german guests, we've moved to the 30-something's guesthouse, with better water, and an overall experience... so we'll chill beachside for another 3 days until we head to Mumbai..
As for the hustle, I think it really breaks down as such...
Step 1: Get friendly, ask where from, how long in India, impressions of India
Step 2: Ask how long in the city/area
Step 3: Describe the surroundings, points of interest
Step 4: Mention to tourist that they should see this, or attend that, eat this, etc etc.
Step 5 (when approaching destination): Indicate that you are available to drive tourist to sites at a discounted, non-taxed rate, give mobile number.. or in the case of the shopkeeper, discuss that you know that burning silk smells like hair and offer to burn the sari.. sell sari, scarf, pillow cover... when met with "not interested" begin the whole 'they make great gifts, buy for your wife/mother, etc etc"... and so it goes.
I'm beginning to wonder if I can just tell the rickshaw people "hello,you're driving me for xxx$, if you don't drag me to any shops etc, I will give you an extra $$$"... perhaps a test is in order...
*****
So, after spending a few days in Varanasi, we find ourselves in Goa... India's equivalent to all things sunny and tropical...
Varanasi was an experience. It's the holiest city in all of India, and seems to have more cows than people! After almost being hustled from the moment we got off the plane (pre paid taxi stand is NOT inside the airport, and they wanted $600rps to get into Varanasi) we finally made our way into the city... all the while, the taxi cab driver trying to figure out how many days we'd be in the city, what we needed to see, etc etc... I get that it's their livelihood and all, and that it's what they need to do, but sometimes, I'm totally over it. Even our hotel approved boat guide tried to bring us to a 'silk shop'... We had to tell him that his tip would be much higher if he hadn't done that... We checked out sarnath, which is the birthplace of buddhism, hung out with monks, and mostly kicked it with the cows. It still amazes me to see cows blocking traffic, or going the opposite direction of traffic and everyone just managing around them.
After Varanasi, we paused in Delhi en route to Goa.. which is tropical paradise. After an evening in a german 'guesthouse', it's not actually german, but it's run by a german woman who seems to only get german guests, we've moved to the 30-something's guesthouse, with better water, and an overall experience... so we'll chill beachside for another 3 days until we head to Mumbai..
As for the hustle, I think it really breaks down as such...
Step 1: Get friendly, ask where from, how long in India, impressions of India
Step 2: Ask how long in the city/area
Step 3: Describe the surroundings, points of interest
Step 4: Mention to tourist that they should see this, or attend that, eat this, etc etc.
Step 5 (when approaching destination): Indicate that you are available to drive tourist to sites at a discounted, non-taxed rate, give mobile number.. or in the case of the shopkeeper, discuss that you know that burning silk smells like hair and offer to burn the sari.. sell sari, scarf, pillow cover... when met with "not interested" begin the whole 'they make great gifts, buy for your wife/mother, etc etc"... and so it goes.
I'm beginning to wonder if I can just tell the rickshaw people "hello,you're driving me for xxx$, if you don't drag me to any shops etc, I will give you an extra $$$"... perhaps a test is in order...
pictures!
India pictures:http://picasaweb.google.com/corachan/IndiaPart1?authkey=bHH7XGvNEWM
Hong Kong Pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/corachan/AdventuresInFood?authkey=1kJWWDADwGM
Hong Kong Pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/corachan/AdventuresInFood?authkey=1kJWWDADwGM
Friday, January 11, 2008
Honking Explained
After three whirlwind days of sight seeing, including all the typical Delhi tourist sites (red fort, market, mosque, lotus temple, masoleums, etc), and a side trip to Agra for the TAJ MAHAL, I think I'm finally getting adjusted to India. It definitely takes a few days.
The Taj Mahal was amazing, my photos (if I can upload--still haven't found a place that lets me to do that) do not do it justice. You can't see the Taj when you enter the compound, rather, you see a wall, then you walk through and then the next thing you see is this amazing building. It truly is a work of love. The detail in the carvings was breathtaking...
Seeing the Fort in Agra, (where the Shah was imprisoned by his son, yet given a 'cell' where he could always see the Taj) was really cool. It's in much better condition than the Red Fort in Delhi... I blame this as Agra is completely dependent on tourists...
While we were accosted by rickshaws from the moment we got off the train, we thought we'd found a legit guy (pre-paid taxi booth, didn't drag us to the market), but in fact he was still sketchy! After seeing all the sites, with a few hours till our train, he wanted us to see "Agra's handicraft" which was hand made rugs (hello child labour), mosiacs "the artists can only work for 2 hours at a time" (right, and they're not all working for pennies...) and the best part "the beautiful star of Agra" (which is a stone e.g. jewelry store). Geez, I know you get commissions, but I seriously would have paid you more if you'd just left me alone! Oh the joys.
But yes, Honking. So, after observing both the taxis and the rickshaws, I think there's actually a system to this honking. You see, when someone honks, it means both "move your arse!!" , "I'm coming around", "Yield". and for the most part, when one honks at another, the other car/rickshaw yields. It's really quite interesting.
As much as I've gotten used to India, there's one part that I just can't shake--the beggars. There are always beggars everywhere, and I had tried to mentally prepare myself for it, but it really is striking. Particularily in the train station. The children will not only stand in front of you and beg, but what's somewhat alarming, is that they'll touch you. That's what gets me. Or, even reach into a car/rickshaw (which then prompts a chiding from the driver) to try to get to you.. it's intense...
We're off to Varanasi for the next few days, then Goa, Mumbai, and Thailand..
xoxo
The Taj Mahal was amazing, my photos (if I can upload--still haven't found a place that lets me to do that) do not do it justice. You can't see the Taj when you enter the compound, rather, you see a wall, then you walk through and then the next thing you see is this amazing building. It truly is a work of love. The detail in the carvings was breathtaking...
Seeing the Fort in Agra, (where the Shah was imprisoned by his son, yet given a 'cell' where he could always see the Taj) was really cool. It's in much better condition than the Red Fort in Delhi... I blame this as Agra is completely dependent on tourists...
While we were accosted by rickshaws from the moment we got off the train, we thought we'd found a legit guy (pre-paid taxi booth, didn't drag us to the market), but in fact he was still sketchy! After seeing all the sites, with a few hours till our train, he wanted us to see "Agra's handicraft" which was hand made rugs (hello child labour), mosiacs "the artists can only work for 2 hours at a time" (right, and they're not all working for pennies...) and the best part "the beautiful star of Agra" (which is a stone e.g. jewelry store). Geez, I know you get commissions, but I seriously would have paid you more if you'd just left me alone! Oh the joys.
But yes, Honking. So, after observing both the taxis and the rickshaws, I think there's actually a system to this honking. You see, when someone honks, it means both "move your arse!!" , "I'm coming around", "Yield". and for the most part, when one honks at another, the other car/rickshaw yields. It's really quite interesting.
As much as I've gotten used to India, there's one part that I just can't shake--the beggars. There are always beggars everywhere, and I had tried to mentally prepare myself for it, but it really is striking. Particularily in the train station. The children will not only stand in front of you and beg, but what's somewhat alarming, is that they'll touch you. That's what gets me. Or, even reach into a car/rickshaw (which then prompts a chiding from the driver) to try to get to you.. it's intense...
We're off to Varanasi for the next few days, then Goa, Mumbai, and Thailand..
xoxo
Monday, January 7, 2008
00:45... no wait, 01:45...
"They're trying to make it sound like it's only a 1 hour delay, but it's really a 11 hour delay!!!"
Oh Air India, how you suck. After we landed, 12 hours after originally scheduled, our hotel proprietor mentioned that 'you should never fly them again.'
A couple items to note about our flight:
The aircraft appeared to be an 'old' plane, and functioned as such. I swear I was in a time warp back to 1985.... Next, after getting on the plane at 2:30AM, with a full flight of groggy and pissed off people, rather than let everyone sleep, they proceeded to conduct the plane as if it were still flying at it's original 16:15 hour... the lights stayed on, there was food service at 3:30AM, and the best part was--the pilot's rambling.. Now, I don't mind when pilots decide to get on the speakerphone and tell you about so and so city below us, but when it's pitch black outside, what can I really see? and so it went for 6 hours....
As we arrived in Delhi, this is what came over the loudspeaker "Ladies and Gentlemen, flight attendants will now spray the entire cabin with a ministry of health approved spray. It is not hazardous to your health.", Really, not hazardous to my health? What is it? DEET? Air Freshner? What is being sprayed in a tin can that has closed circulation?
Delhi is a sharp contrast to Hong Kong. I'm not sure if routing ourselves through Hong Kong to Delhi was the best option as it's an overwhelming culture shock. Upon arrival, being picked up by our hotel (at a rate far more expensive than a taxi, but peace of mind is well worth the extra money), we dragged our suitcases through throngs of people in the cold fog, sleeping on the street, the tunnel to the parking lot, which turned out to be a gravel area. As all the signs around the airport indicated that 'we are building a world class airport, inconvenience is regretted', I was still shocked by the huge lack of organization. Granted, Delhi is no Hong Kong, but as one of the major entry points to a country that is rapidly promoting tourism, I (wrongly)expected an airport at least comparable to Guatemala City's.....
Driving through the city to our hotel I saw the following on the highway: 3 lanes, which in fact are 6 lanes of cars, a horse drawn carriage, tuk tuk's, people walking across traffic, our driver heading straight for this person and at the last possible second swerving. I think (as A, definitely was), had I not experience Beijing taxi drivers, this type of driving would have shocked me. Although, I'm almost certain that Delhi drivers put Beijing to shame.
After struggling through a hindi language barrier with our host (night host), we contemplated leaving the city. No joke. Feeling very lost, and unable to figure out how one actually gets from place to place (yes, there are 2 metro lines, but they're not near where we're staying), there was a (albiet fleeting) thought, that yes, perhaps, we're just not cut out for India....
Fortunately, after a siesta, we managed to pull ourselves together to visit Khan Market for some essentials (SIM card, travel adapter). I think Khan Market really embodied (what I've seen thus far) and explained Delhi to me. It's Western oriented, filled with modern shops, such as Benneton, Nike, Adidas, yet, there' s still a dirt alley, the building facades look old and worn, yet inside, each place was shiny, bright and modern. My hilarity, was the efficiency of technology used at each of the shops, which was completely absent from the airport....
Today, we'll be touring around all the major sites, and hopefully hammering out the details for the remainder of our trip in India....
Oh Air India, how you suck. After we landed, 12 hours after originally scheduled, our hotel proprietor mentioned that 'you should never fly them again.'
A couple items to note about our flight:
The aircraft appeared to be an 'old' plane, and functioned as such. I swear I was in a time warp back to 1985.... Next, after getting on the plane at 2:30AM, with a full flight of groggy and pissed off people, rather than let everyone sleep, they proceeded to conduct the plane as if it were still flying at it's original 16:15 hour... the lights stayed on, there was food service at 3:30AM, and the best part was--the pilot's rambling.. Now, I don't mind when pilots decide to get on the speakerphone and tell you about so and so city below us, but when it's pitch black outside, what can I really see? and so it went for 6 hours....
As we arrived in Delhi, this is what came over the loudspeaker "Ladies and Gentlemen, flight attendants will now spray the entire cabin with a ministry of health approved spray. It is not hazardous to your health.", Really, not hazardous to my health? What is it? DEET? Air Freshner? What is being sprayed in a tin can that has closed circulation?
Delhi is a sharp contrast to Hong Kong. I'm not sure if routing ourselves through Hong Kong to Delhi was the best option as it's an overwhelming culture shock. Upon arrival, being picked up by our hotel (at a rate far more expensive than a taxi, but peace of mind is well worth the extra money), we dragged our suitcases through throngs of people in the cold fog, sleeping on the street, the tunnel to the parking lot, which turned out to be a gravel area. As all the signs around the airport indicated that 'we are building a world class airport, inconvenience is regretted', I was still shocked by the huge lack of organization. Granted, Delhi is no Hong Kong, but as one of the major entry points to a country that is rapidly promoting tourism, I (wrongly)expected an airport at least comparable to Guatemala City's.....
Driving through the city to our hotel I saw the following on the highway: 3 lanes, which in fact are 6 lanes of cars, a horse drawn carriage, tuk tuk's, people walking across traffic, our driver heading straight for this person and at the last possible second swerving. I think (as A, definitely was), had I not experience Beijing taxi drivers, this type of driving would have shocked me. Although, I'm almost certain that Delhi drivers put Beijing to shame.
After struggling through a hindi language barrier with our host (night host), we contemplated leaving the city. No joke. Feeling very lost, and unable to figure out how one actually gets from place to place (yes, there are 2 metro lines, but they're not near where we're staying), there was a (albiet fleeting) thought, that yes, perhaps, we're just not cut out for India....
Fortunately, after a siesta, we managed to pull ourselves together to visit Khan Market for some essentials (SIM card, travel adapter). I think Khan Market really embodied (what I've seen thus far) and explained Delhi to me. It's Western oriented, filled with modern shops, such as Benneton, Nike, Adidas, yet, there' s still a dirt alley, the building facades look old and worn, yet inside, each place was shiny, bright and modern. My hilarity, was the efficiency of technology used at each of the shops, which was completely absent from the airport....
Today, we'll be touring around all the major sites, and hopefully hammering out the details for the remainder of our trip in India....
Sunday, January 6, 2008
stuck in the airport....
After an eventful 2 days of shopping (Friday was Mong Kok- I don't think A's ever seen that many people out at night), we are now stuck in the HK airport... oh 9 hour delay that was not on the internet... however, we've managed to make a friend via "oh are you waiting to?" which is always fun... in any case, it saves our 'monday where everything is closed in Delhi' as we'll be sleeping upon arrival...
In any case, a recap of the shopping fun
Friday night was fun in Mong Kok, which is on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong... Now, I'll have to post the photos (whenever I actually get somewhere that allows me to do so) in order for you to get an idea of how many people there are. Just think, housing is tiny here, so EVERYONE goes out at night. Especially on a Friday night.. Mong Kok is a huge shopping district, you can find literally everything here... So, while all of the HK under 20 crowd roamed the streets, we hung out with Cousin Andrew.. first we went out for Japanese--where we had some shabu shabu, sashimi, and some other interesting hot plate, cook your own meat sort of thing.. SO TASTY!!
Next, we went on a tour of every single electronics shop in the area in search of the best possible deal for the Canon Sd870 (which we found), and for a cheap international cell phone, and of course, one of the nicest malls in the world. This mall at these incredibly LONG escalators.. essentially, the escalator would skip 3 whole floors at a time. Tons of light, lots of space. If there's anything to be said, HKers love their malls.
The highlight of the night (of course) was the dessert. We went to this dessert house that specializes in only Mango. That's right, Mango pudding with mango ice cream, sprinkled with some coconut; mango slices with tapioca, mango slushie, mango and red bean... Obviously, it was super popular, because in the span of walking around, what was probably a 6 block radius--we passed by 4 of these shops.
Saturday was spent shopping for me... Hitting up the cashmere outlet (as instructed by my 5th auntie), and then walking around Wanchai for the deals, I found some nice stuff... that sadly, will have to stay in the suitcase at poh poh's until I come back from India and Thailand.
Today, unbeknownst to us, and for whatever reason, our 'plane is not in hong kong' so we, along with everyone else on Air India was stuck in the airport... since they never notified us.. I have to say though, of all airports to be stuck in, it's not so bad. Lots of shops to explore (MNG, Bossino, Giordano, Calvin Klein, luggage stores, etc etc). There's also free wi-fi here, which would only be helpful if I'd actually brought my laptop....
Which A and I keep kicking ourselves about. We're both super tempted to find a cheap laptop and just buy it, but sadly, it's not particularily economical... le sigh. Although, macs retail for the same as the US (but only in white, if they had the black macbook, I would seriously consider it).
This past week was insightful... the more I think about it, the more I think I could live in HK and have a blast (and not shop all the time). Overall, its an incredibly convenient city. Much more so than NYC. For all the love I have of NYC, HK beats it for convenience. In every apartment complex, there's at least 1 park n shop, drycleaners, playground, nursery, hair salon, etc, thereby ensuring that one never has to leave the complex... and the metro system.. it runs every 3 minutes during non-peak hours! and the octopus card.. Seriously, someone needs to bring that to the US... the octopus card is this refillable card that you use to pay for your metro (tap on entry and exit), you can purchased things at 7/11, Circle K, drugstores, buses, trolleys, everything. Almost all commonly used 'things' can be paid for with the octopus card. It completely negates the need to carry cash. It's quite nice.
***************
Coffee: So, there is no dearth of starbucks in Hong Kong.. and they even have special flavors like black tea latte, rooibos tea latte, lots of green tea lattes etc etc.. but for whatever reason, when I order a latte here, there is no caffeine. I know I have caffeine tolerance (a la peet's) but seriously? I get sleepier after I drink it!! The same goes for the coffee at pacific coffee too... I suppose it's a good thing, since I need to bring the post-grad school tolerance down to normal....
Krispy Kreme Donuts have miraculously made their way to HK.. as well as Familigia's pizza.. which I find digusting.. but I digress... at Krispy Kreme, they have the most interesting flavors! They call it the "Kreme Hei Fat Choi" (Happy New Year)... There's apple, mandarin orange, black tea twist, green tea twist donuts... I didn't have the muster to try them, but they looked pretty.. and more interesting, the donuts are smaller!!!
Well, all the portion sizes are smaller here.. which might (partially) explain the lack of fat people here. Now, if only the rest of the world (ahem super size america) would consider making all the portion sizes smaller....
In any case, a recap of the shopping fun
Friday night was fun in Mong Kok, which is on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong... Now, I'll have to post the photos (whenever I actually get somewhere that allows me to do so) in order for you to get an idea of how many people there are. Just think, housing is tiny here, so EVERYONE goes out at night. Especially on a Friday night.. Mong Kok is a huge shopping district, you can find literally everything here... So, while all of the HK under 20 crowd roamed the streets, we hung out with Cousin Andrew.. first we went out for Japanese--where we had some shabu shabu, sashimi, and some other interesting hot plate, cook your own meat sort of thing.. SO TASTY!!
Next, we went on a tour of every single electronics shop in the area in search of the best possible deal for the Canon Sd870 (which we found), and for a cheap international cell phone, and of course, one of the nicest malls in the world. This mall at these incredibly LONG escalators.. essentially, the escalator would skip 3 whole floors at a time. Tons of light, lots of space. If there's anything to be said, HKers love their malls.
The highlight of the night (of course) was the dessert. We went to this dessert house that specializes in only Mango. That's right, Mango pudding with mango ice cream, sprinkled with some coconut; mango slices with tapioca, mango slushie, mango and red bean... Obviously, it was super popular, because in the span of walking around, what was probably a 6 block radius--we passed by 4 of these shops.
Saturday was spent shopping for me... Hitting up the cashmere outlet (as instructed by my 5th auntie), and then walking around Wanchai for the deals, I found some nice stuff... that sadly, will have to stay in the suitcase at poh poh's until I come back from India and Thailand.
Today, unbeknownst to us, and for whatever reason, our 'plane is not in hong kong' so we, along with everyone else on Air India was stuck in the airport... since they never notified us.. I have to say though, of all airports to be stuck in, it's not so bad. Lots of shops to explore (MNG, Bossino, Giordano, Calvin Klein, luggage stores, etc etc). There's also free wi-fi here, which would only be helpful if I'd actually brought my laptop....
Which A and I keep kicking ourselves about. We're both super tempted to find a cheap laptop and just buy it, but sadly, it's not particularily economical... le sigh. Although, macs retail for the same as the US (but only in white, if they had the black macbook, I would seriously consider it).
This past week was insightful... the more I think about it, the more I think I could live in HK and have a blast (and not shop all the time). Overall, its an incredibly convenient city. Much more so than NYC. For all the love I have of NYC, HK beats it for convenience. In every apartment complex, there's at least 1 park n shop, drycleaners, playground, nursery, hair salon, etc, thereby ensuring that one never has to leave the complex... and the metro system.. it runs every 3 minutes during non-peak hours! and the octopus card.. Seriously, someone needs to bring that to the US... the octopus card is this refillable card that you use to pay for your metro (tap on entry and exit), you can purchased things at 7/11, Circle K, drugstores, buses, trolleys, everything. Almost all commonly used 'things' can be paid for with the octopus card. It completely negates the need to carry cash. It's quite nice.
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Coffee: So, there is no dearth of starbucks in Hong Kong.. and they even have special flavors like black tea latte, rooibos tea latte, lots of green tea lattes etc etc.. but for whatever reason, when I order a latte here, there is no caffeine. I know I have caffeine tolerance (a la peet's) but seriously? I get sleepier after I drink it!! The same goes for the coffee at pacific coffee too... I suppose it's a good thing, since I need to bring the post-grad school tolerance down to normal....
Krispy Kreme Donuts have miraculously made their way to HK.. as well as Familigia's pizza.. which I find digusting.. but I digress... at Krispy Kreme, they have the most interesting flavors! They call it the "Kreme Hei Fat Choi" (Happy New Year)... There's apple, mandarin orange, black tea twist, green tea twist donuts... I didn't have the muster to try them, but they looked pretty.. and more interesting, the donuts are smaller!!!
Well, all the portion sizes are smaller here.. which might (partially) explain the lack of fat people here. Now, if only the rest of the world (ahem super size america) would consider making all the portion sizes smaller....
Friday, January 4, 2008
some places are just not to be....
For Starbucks that is... We went to the giant buddha over on Lantau island, and low and behold, at the top where the buddha is, there's a Starbucks... tre reminiscent of the one in the Forbidden City...while I love me some bux, it's a little much when it's at a cultural/religious site.
Buddha was cool, but it doesn't compare with the ones I've seen in China.. but still neat, nonetheless..
The tram ride up (which is apparently new, and costs mucho dinero, but we did it anyways) was gorgeous! amazing views of the water, airport, buddha.... What was most interesting was seeing the route with which they built a trail.. there are no switchbacks, everything just goes straight up! Let's just say, it would be an amazing glute workout.
Next up (For the next 1.5 days) is more eating, and hopefully some shopping at the major 'removal' sales...
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Finalized travel plans:
Delhi: 1/6-11
Varanasi: 1/11-1/12 -->Delhi en route to Jaipur for ??? days... then Goa, then Mumbai...
Arrive in Bangkok on 1/25, chill around Bangkok, beaches, Chiang Mai till 2/1, then up to the mountains....
back in the states 2/20.
Buddha was cool, but it doesn't compare with the ones I've seen in China.. but still neat, nonetheless..
The tram ride up (which is apparently new, and costs mucho dinero, but we did it anyways) was gorgeous! amazing views of the water, airport, buddha.... What was most interesting was seeing the route with which they built a trail.. there are no switchbacks, everything just goes straight up! Let's just say, it would be an amazing glute workout.
Next up (For the next 1.5 days) is more eating, and hopefully some shopping at the major 'removal' sales...
***************************
Finalized travel plans:
Delhi: 1/6-11
Varanasi: 1/11-1/12 -->Delhi en route to Jaipur for ??? days... then Goa, then Mumbai...
Arrive in Bangkok on 1/25, chill around Bangkok, beaches, Chiang Mai till 2/1, then up to the mountains....
back in the states 2/20.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Oh snacks, how I love thee
I am a closet snack freak... well not really a closet snack freak for those of you who have ever seen my pantry....
So, in any case, HK is a delight... Not only did I find my ever elusive Schweppes Grapefruit Soda (hello, Ranch 99 circa 1999-2001 when they actually imported this stuff to the US) at 7-11, I also found my blackberry fruittips (which yes, I can find in the US, but they taste better here!) and also the egg waffle stands... now, I'm just getting fat on my own. HAH!
Ok, the Schweppes has a story... Mostly being that when I couldn't find it in the grocery store or Chinatown, I looked up Schweppes online (US, UK and HK sites) and tried to see if they would ship me a crate... Yes, this is obviously, a little OCD with the snacks... but then again, if I want it, I want it...
And, to top it off, today we went to Yung Kee for their famous Roasted Goose, of which, me and my not paying attention cantonese self, wound up on the VIP floor.. omg, I felt so out of the place. Fortunately, the prices are the same for lunch, but boy did we stick out... It was tasty, not too fatty, but alas, I'm not sure if I would call it 'heaven'.
Yesterday, we spent the day trying to exchange money... Seriously, HK is supposed to be a financial capital, but no Rhuppees to be found!!! Eh, to the airport.
Walking around the city is awesome.. Despite having to turn my head this way and that, I'm so impressed by the overhead skyways, and the metro system..geez, it's so people friendly... or paternalistic... I mean I've always noticed and known that they have doors along the track (no one can be pushed/fall into the track) that only open when the train arrives (could you imagine if they actually did that in the states? the trains would actually have to stop in the same place.. MTA driver's ed)... Then, they organize the stations so well, things are labeled, A,B,C, and there are little descriptions of what's at each exit with their respective streets... I mean, if MTA could actually indicate what's at each exit in addition to the street, I would be so less lost... And cleanliness.. It's almost Singaporean.
In other news, I am seriously missing my crackberry.... Not having email, phone and internet in my pocket is seriously painful... I cannot wait until the day that I can actually carry my phone everywhere I go.. none of this having to ask to unlock the phone, buying new sim cards left and right, geez, it'd be so easy, almost like plane travel!
Other state things, I'm missing: Windows XP (did not think I would actually miss this, but I do), my closet, gchat, indoor heat (yea, they don't heat here, which makes for a cold night)....
Leaving for New Delhi on Sunday, which will definitely be an experience.. Thus far, we've found an Inn in Delhi, planned our trip to Varanasi (Loved the email Frannie!), and have tentatively routed ourselves for Jaipur, Goa and Mumbai... which reminds me, anyone, Mumbai? Yay, Nay? things to do? Seems like it can be done in 1 day or 4 days.... We only have to go there since our flight to Bangkok is from there... which also means, my spoiled comfortable life will be ending shortly... time for the real adventures to begin!
So, in any case, HK is a delight... Not only did I find my ever elusive Schweppes Grapefruit Soda (hello, Ranch 99 circa 1999-2001 when they actually imported this stuff to the US) at 7-11, I also found my blackberry fruittips (which yes, I can find in the US, but they taste better here!) and also the egg waffle stands... now, I'm just getting fat on my own. HAH!
Ok, the Schweppes has a story... Mostly being that when I couldn't find it in the grocery store or Chinatown, I looked up Schweppes online (US, UK and HK sites) and tried to see if they would ship me a crate... Yes, this is obviously, a little OCD with the snacks... but then again, if I want it, I want it...
And, to top it off, today we went to Yung Kee for their famous Roasted Goose, of which, me and my not paying attention cantonese self, wound up on the VIP floor.. omg, I felt so out of the place. Fortunately, the prices are the same for lunch, but boy did we stick out... It was tasty, not too fatty, but alas, I'm not sure if I would call it 'heaven'.
Yesterday, we spent the day trying to exchange money... Seriously, HK is supposed to be a financial capital, but no Rhuppees to be found!!! Eh, to the airport.
Walking around the city is awesome.. Despite having to turn my head this way and that, I'm so impressed by the overhead skyways, and the metro system..geez, it's so people friendly... or paternalistic... I mean I've always noticed and known that they have doors along the track (no one can be pushed/fall into the track) that only open when the train arrives (could you imagine if they actually did that in the states? the trains would actually have to stop in the same place.. MTA driver's ed)... Then, they organize the stations so well, things are labeled, A,B,C, and there are little descriptions of what's at each exit with their respective streets... I mean, if MTA could actually indicate what's at each exit in addition to the street, I would be so less lost... And cleanliness.. It's almost Singaporean.
In other news, I am seriously missing my crackberry.... Not having email, phone and internet in my pocket is seriously painful... I cannot wait until the day that I can actually carry my phone everywhere I go.. none of this having to ask to unlock the phone, buying new sim cards left and right, geez, it'd be so easy, almost like plane travel!
Other state things, I'm missing: Windows XP (did not think I would actually miss this, but I do), my closet, gchat, indoor heat (yea, they don't heat here, which makes for a cold night)....
Leaving for New Delhi on Sunday, which will definitely be an experience.. Thus far, we've found an Inn in Delhi, planned our trip to Varanasi (Loved the email Frannie!), and have tentatively routed ourselves for Jaipur, Goa and Mumbai... which reminds me, anyone, Mumbai? Yay, Nay? things to do? Seems like it can be done in 1 day or 4 days.... We only have to go there since our flight to Bangkok is from there... which also means, my spoiled comfortable life will be ending shortly... time for the real adventures to begin!
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
15.5 hours later
I seriously blocked out how long the flight is from SF to Hong Kong.... Lucky us, we managed to get a free empty seat between us on the plane... Oh, and the 'ergonomic' seats that I was so excited for on Cathay Pacific are a joke!! They certainly look ergonomic, but are not conducive to sleeping.. but at least they have tv shows, and a variety of movies... I got to catch up on girlie movies (No Reservations anyone? Love Actually?)
After landing, we passed out... after fending off my poh poh and her desire to feed us everything under the moon...
The 1st was filled with food and family....
Dim Sum with the Chan side in WanChai district... which poh-poh insisted that we take the electric trolley to... and also stating that it would only take 30 minutes... not quite... and we got on the wrong trolley, which was kind of hilarious, if only because everyone started to freak out that we were late.... A was a good sport and managed to pack away everything my aunt put on his plate (no cow stomach for him tho!), then we took a tour of the 'old neighborhood', and my aunt pointed out the key "to-do's"
*Won Ton Noodle shop that my dad frequents every time he's in HK (we'll check out that later today)
* Cashmere export shop (i.e. my mum's 'favorite' place)
*prostitutes (what not to do in HK.. )
*Electronics Depot
then we slept it off and decided to eat again,
the giant dinner meal with the Wong side... which of course everything ended up on my plate.. i was seriously contemplating bulimia 1/3 of the way through dinner... If only to make it to the end of the dinner.... But good times all around. my cousins are fun.. they took us to the top of the peak (cold and windy) for an awesome view, then down to Central for drinks.... Of which poh-poh was inquiring about later...
This AM, after convincing my poh-poh that yes, we dont drink milk, and that no her maid didn't break the shower I did (to no avail, that poor woman can do no right), which was then fixed we finally made it out of the house...
HK's been fun so far. I think it's been really interesting noting the class and cultural differences here... (more later), which I'm sure I'll see more of in India...
After landing, we passed out... after fending off my poh poh and her desire to feed us everything under the moon...
The 1st was filled with food and family....
Dim Sum with the Chan side in WanChai district... which poh-poh insisted that we take the electric trolley to... and also stating that it would only take 30 minutes... not quite... and we got on the wrong trolley, which was kind of hilarious, if only because everyone started to freak out that we were late.... A was a good sport and managed to pack away everything my aunt put on his plate (no cow stomach for him tho!), then we took a tour of the 'old neighborhood', and my aunt pointed out the key "to-do's"
*Won Ton Noodle shop that my dad frequents every time he's in HK (we'll check out that later today)
* Cashmere export shop (i.e. my mum's 'favorite' place)
*prostitutes (what not to do in HK.. )
*Electronics Depot
then we slept it off and decided to eat again,
the giant dinner meal with the Wong side... which of course everything ended up on my plate.. i was seriously contemplating bulimia 1/3 of the way through dinner... If only to make it to the end of the dinner.... But good times all around. my cousins are fun.. they took us to the top of the peak (cold and windy) for an awesome view, then down to Central for drinks.... Of which poh-poh was inquiring about later...
This AM, after convincing my poh-poh that yes, we dont drink milk, and that no her maid didn't break the shower I did (to no avail, that poor woman can do no right), which was then fixed we finally made it out of the house...
HK's been fun so far. I think it's been really interesting noting the class and cultural differences here... (more later), which I'm sure I'll see more of in India...
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