I'm in Pai, which is known as the hippie capital of Thailand, but it feels a lot more like the hippie capital of the world. First things first, I don't like hippies. I reserve this right since I grew up in Berkeley, the bastion of all things hippie (and sometimes extremely un-liberal (hello trying to kick out the marine recruiting center... don't get me started on that one) and I really, really, really hate dirty, smelly, ugly things. Which is pretty much what I'm getting here--hundredfold.
It's essentially a bunch of Thai hippies, mixed with the dirty western(er) hippies who all come here to play their guitars, and sit around and 'chill man'. They also seem to want to talk to me, and I'm so not keen on that (especially the "how is your coffee?" (which I internally say "f-off" but politely respond "fine").
In any case, we're out here to measure and survey the Shan community. There are a lot of Shan here since there's farming and a whole lot of construction jobs (the more hippies that come, the more guesthouses that are built, as camping/sleeping on the street is a hefty fine). In any case, last night we went to the first community and managed to weigh, gather height, bp information, survey questions, of about 20 folks all in hopes of comparing these results of an undocumented, unrecognized refugee population with that of the 'normal' thai population. We are definitely a sight to see: 2 westerners, hanging out with a Thai monk (who is helping us translate) with migrant laborers. There was a farang couple wandering around the village who looked particularly interested in our group.
I will say that Pai is an interesting place of integration. I'm shocked by how many muslims there are mixed in with the hippie who's baring her butt crack (shocking image and sooo unncessary, underpants are cheap in Thailand), and Chinese! We found a tasty little congee shop selling Thai food, and the woman happened to Hunnanese.. she asked me where I was from (with the usual confusion regarding a chinese american from America not China) and then started speaking to me in Mandarin, and I responded in Cantonese.. it was amusing. The farang bars and restaurants all co-exist with the local bars and restaurants, unlike most other cities that have a large number of visitors.. We know this, New Yorkers hate Time Square, and San Franciscan's loathe Fisherman's Wharf... yet here (although I have no idea if the Pai'an's hate the farang--though I don't doubt it), everything is right next to each other.. In any case, it is absolutely gorgeous here (and hot!). The scenery between MHS and Pai is just mountains, mountains and more mountains (although the bus ride was a vomit comet), filled with farm land.
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