It's funny how, at the start of all vacations (particularily the long ones) I'm always spazzing out about "can I do this? Can I really go away for 8 weeks? am I going to drive myself insane with just me, myself, and I to talk to? (this is the past 3 weeks)" and then, when it's time to start heading back, I start missing the thought of travel.
As I embark on the last leg of my journey (Hong Kong), it's crazy to think that I've been gone as long (or little) as 8 weeks. I've practically bypassed winter! Don't get me wrong, I'm super excited for a burrito and burger, but I'm also really sad that my adventure is coming to a close.
The last few days were comprised of the following:
-Being complimented by Thais, that the little Thai I've picked up, I 'sound like a real Thai'
-Helping to film some Thai friends' "Amazing Race Asia" video... we made them eat a grasshopper!
-Realizing that no matter where I am, I am truly a shopaholic.. and that's unwise to unleash me into a market with over 15,000 stands with no chaperone (I had to sit on my suitcase this morning). It's really quite remarkable what one can purchase for $80USD.
-Wearing my "NYC Face" (you know we all have those--it's the subway face "don't talk to me") and being asked by a Thai guy (who touched me!!) "why are you sad?!?" le sigh
-Being appalled, disgusted, and judgemental (I know, I shouldn't judge) by the massive number of farang/thai girl/boy relationships I've seen in Bangkok in the last 2 days (if it's true love, sure, but when the Thai person has limited english/2nd language skills, I tend to wonder). It really disturbs me how prevalent and open the(sex) relationship trade is here. I understand that it is about economic opportunity for many of these people, but the sheer delight that's on the farang's face, is, to put it bluntly, kind of gross.
-Thinking about all the food I'm going to eat when I get back to the states... and then thinking about how many calories I've consumed on this trip, without any exercise (I really thought I was going to get sick on this trip so I could get rid of the holiday/finals calories!)...and then thinking how I should go for a run (albeit, a slow snail's crawl run) the minute I get back to the states... and how a gym membership might be in order.
-Trying to figure out the names of Thai popstars, so I too, can continue to "quiver" in the states (a coffee morning joke)
-Realizing that all the thai food I thought was good in the states, is probably NOT that good.. and definitely without enough heat... which just means I'm going to have to keep sampling.. oh food, how I love thee.
time for some last minute fun.
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Friday, February 15, 2008
Adventures on the vomit comet
So, after a fun filled week with the hippies, I'm back in MHS for the last leg of my trip (To fly to Bangkok and then HK)...
Thus far, in Pai, I've managed to make an arse out of myself, with the following:
1) Slipping/tripping/eating it on my arse 3x (this includes tripping in water and falling, almost breaking my foot again by missteping, and almost tripping down the side of the hill when walking in the dark to one of the houses to gather data)
2) Screaming at the sight of a gecko over my pillow (on the wall), and then deciding to move the entire mattress from the loft to the floor
3) Almost drooling on myself while waiting at the bus station to go back to MHS, since I took the dramamine on time, but the bus was late.
After collecting data on over 100 persons in the last 2 weeks, I'm really excited about the possibility of doing follow ups out here! Maybe it's a little overly ambitious, but still, how cool would that be?
Pai was interesting. While we had some amazing food opportunities (Mint Lime Honey Shake, Passion Fruit/Strawberry/Mango shake from the fruit factory), there were also a lot of busts. Sadly, due to the high volume of farang there, there's a lot of farang-ish food (i.e. no flavor). I have a feeling this is going to get worse as I return to the states and think that what was once 'great' thai food, is now only mediocre. le sigh.
Thus far, in Pai, I've managed to make an arse out of myself, with the following:
1) Slipping/tripping/eating it on my arse 3x (this includes tripping in water and falling, almost breaking my foot again by missteping, and almost tripping down the side of the hill when walking in the dark to one of the houses to gather data)
2) Screaming at the sight of a gecko over my pillow (on the wall), and then deciding to move the entire mattress from the loft to the floor
3) Almost drooling on myself while waiting at the bus station to go back to MHS, since I took the dramamine on time, but the bus was late.
After collecting data on over 100 persons in the last 2 weeks, I'm really excited about the possibility of doing follow ups out here! Maybe it's a little overly ambitious, but still, how cool would that be?
Pai was interesting. While we had some amazing food opportunities (Mint Lime Honey Shake, Passion Fruit/Strawberry/Mango shake from the fruit factory), there were also a lot of busts. Sadly, due to the high volume of farang there, there's a lot of farang-ish food (i.e. no flavor). I have a feeling this is going to get worse as I return to the states and think that what was once 'great' thai food, is now only mediocre. le sigh.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Hippie Capital of the world
I'm in Pai, which is known as the hippie capital of Thailand, but it feels a lot more like the hippie capital of the world. First things first, I don't like hippies. I reserve this right since I grew up in Berkeley, the bastion of all things hippie (and sometimes extremely un-liberal (hello trying to kick out the marine recruiting center... don't get me started on that one) and I really, really, really hate dirty, smelly, ugly things. Which is pretty much what I'm getting here--hundredfold.
It's essentially a bunch of Thai hippies, mixed with the dirty western(er) hippies who all come here to play their guitars, and sit around and 'chill man'. They also seem to want to talk to me, and I'm so not keen on that (especially the "how is your coffee?" (which I internally say "f-off" but politely respond "fine").
In any case, we're out here to measure and survey the Shan community. There are a lot of Shan here since there's farming and a whole lot of construction jobs (the more hippies that come, the more guesthouses that are built, as camping/sleeping on the street is a hefty fine). In any case, last night we went to the first community and managed to weigh, gather height, bp information, survey questions, of about 20 folks all in hopes of comparing these results of an undocumented, unrecognized refugee population with that of the 'normal' thai population. We are definitely a sight to see: 2 westerners, hanging out with a Thai monk (who is helping us translate) with migrant laborers. There was a farang couple wandering around the village who looked particularly interested in our group.
I will say that Pai is an interesting place of integration. I'm shocked by how many muslims there are mixed in with the hippie who's baring her butt crack (shocking image and sooo unncessary, underpants are cheap in Thailand), and Chinese! We found a tasty little congee shop selling Thai food, and the woman happened to Hunnanese.. she asked me where I was from (with the usual confusion regarding a chinese american from America not China) and then started speaking to me in Mandarin, and I responded in Cantonese.. it was amusing. The farang bars and restaurants all co-exist with the local bars and restaurants, unlike most other cities that have a large number of visitors.. We know this, New Yorkers hate Time Square, and San Franciscan's loathe Fisherman's Wharf... yet here (although I have no idea if the Pai'an's hate the farang--though I don't doubt it), everything is right next to each other.. In any case, it is absolutely gorgeous here (and hot!). The scenery between MHS and Pai is just mountains, mountains and more mountains (although the bus ride was a vomit comet), filled with farm land.
It's essentially a bunch of Thai hippies, mixed with the dirty western(er) hippies who all come here to play their guitars, and sit around and 'chill man'. They also seem to want to talk to me, and I'm so not keen on that (especially the "how is your coffee?" (which I internally say "f-off" but politely respond "fine").
In any case, we're out here to measure and survey the Shan community. There are a lot of Shan here since there's farming and a whole lot of construction jobs (the more hippies that come, the more guesthouses that are built, as camping/sleeping on the street is a hefty fine). In any case, last night we went to the first community and managed to weigh, gather height, bp information, survey questions, of about 20 folks all in hopes of comparing these results of an undocumented, unrecognized refugee population with that of the 'normal' thai population. We are definitely a sight to see: 2 westerners, hanging out with a Thai monk (who is helping us translate) with migrant laborers. There was a farang couple wandering around the village who looked particularly interested in our group.
I will say that Pai is an interesting place of integration. I'm shocked by how many muslims there are mixed in with the hippie who's baring her butt crack (shocking image and sooo unncessary, underpants are cheap in Thailand), and Chinese! We found a tasty little congee shop selling Thai food, and the woman happened to Hunnanese.. she asked me where I was from (with the usual confusion regarding a chinese american from America not China) and then started speaking to me in Mandarin, and I responded in Cantonese.. it was amusing. The farang bars and restaurants all co-exist with the local bars and restaurants, unlike most other cities that have a large number of visitors.. We know this, New Yorkers hate Time Square, and San Franciscan's loathe Fisherman's Wharf... yet here (although I have no idea if the Pai'an's hate the farang--though I don't doubt it), everything is right next to each other.. In any case, it is absolutely gorgeous here (and hot!). The scenery between MHS and Pai is just mountains, mountains and more mountains (although the bus ride was a vomit comet), filled with farm land.
Friday, February 8, 2008
Fiery Fierceness
Is what I would describe the mosquitoes here. These suckers love to bite... I will definitely not miss them.
After spending the past week and a half in Mae Hong Son, I can see why my professor heads back here every year for 3 months. It's an idyllic life. In a town that adheres to the "early to bed, late to rise" philosophy, I'm ensured 8 hours of rest a night. I'm definitely banking this in preparation for my return to the Western world. My day consists of 1)breakfast and email checking at 1 of 3 local cafes (morning decision = muesli + coffee = Sawadee cafe; bagel + cafe=Cafe Morning; amazing cappucino=cute cafe with no discerning name next to the lake; or, in the event of a morning bike ride = 7/11 for chau sei bao). Next, I will either go for a 2 hour bike ride or we'll go visit a village to do health screenings... The afternoon is spent at the coffee shop, then grant writing... Dinner is lakeside, or at one of the many restaurants, and dessert is 1 of 3 things: the newly discovered ice cream shop, the sweet soybean stand, or roti's with the burmese refugee who happens to have a penchant for whiskey. Then I'm in my room with bbc at 10pm!
These past few days, I've been interviewing the OPC director and office manager to discern key facts for the grant writing process. Unfortunately, I've stumbled into what qualitative academics call "amazing management research." The personality conflict that's brewing at and below the surface is really starting to become clear--sadly, I am not a therapist, nor a qualitative researcher... But, what is apparent, is that there is no clear direction at the orphanage. While the children are schooled, housed, and fed, no other needs are attended to, posing huge development problems. Obviously, this is a western view of things. Given that these children are all refugees, all lacking stable homes and/or parents, their basics are covered. Unfortunately, we (being westerners) know that it does take more than the physical to nurture children and to get them to 'thrive'. I don't doubt the commitment of the project director to the children and the surrounding community (sadly, the community is far too reliant on him for monetary donations and assistance, to the point that I would call "abuse" and the 'savior' mentality is still too dominating for him to cut the umbilical cord), but it's obvious there needs to be more. The kids are adorable--while 27 of them live under the care of 3 caretakers, and 1 has TB (non-infectious) and 1 is HIV positive (from his mother), they are remarkably fun. The orphanage is next to a river, which serves as their play /bathing/washing area, and with only a few sets of clothes, and almost no direction (it doesn't appear like anyone tells them to do homework), and only have contact 1-2/x year with their relatives, they're so vibrant.
Most of the children are ethnic Shan, thereby existing in Thailand as unrecognized refugees since they don't qualify to live in refugee camps (and if they did, they've be called 'hill tribes' and have 0 access to anything), and most lack papers. So while, international law governs that all children have access to education, and basic health care (i.e. basic human rights per the 1952 UN refugee accord), they don't have those rights and are routinely denied access by local officials. As I work on a grant, and examine the financial statements, I'm amazed by how much of the budget is allocated to 'school/teacher fees', which are essentially bribes. Although, the upside is that they payments work, all the children are enrolled in school.
In addition to the grant writing, I find myself working on a research study with a fellow columbia (soon to be) alum. We're trying to examine the differences in physical development of these refugees relative to Thai norms, and whether or not the mental stress of refugee status affects their social and mental development. I must say, that as much as I try to run away from research, it always seems to find me.
Another week or so of the simple life--then it's back to the madness of the west!
After spending the past week and a half in Mae Hong Son, I can see why my professor heads back here every year for 3 months. It's an idyllic life. In a town that adheres to the "early to bed, late to rise" philosophy, I'm ensured 8 hours of rest a night. I'm definitely banking this in preparation for my return to the Western world. My day consists of 1)breakfast and email checking at 1 of 3 local cafes (morning decision = muesli + coffee = Sawadee cafe; bagel + cafe=Cafe Morning; amazing cappucino=cute cafe with no discerning name next to the lake; or, in the event of a morning bike ride = 7/11 for chau sei bao). Next, I will either go for a 2 hour bike ride or we'll go visit a village to do health screenings... The afternoon is spent at the coffee shop, then grant writing... Dinner is lakeside, or at one of the many restaurants, and dessert is 1 of 3 things: the newly discovered ice cream shop, the sweet soybean stand, or roti's with the burmese refugee who happens to have a penchant for whiskey. Then I'm in my room with bbc at 10pm!
These past few days, I've been interviewing the OPC director and office manager to discern key facts for the grant writing process. Unfortunately, I've stumbled into what qualitative academics call "amazing management research." The personality conflict that's brewing at and below the surface is really starting to become clear--sadly, I am not a therapist, nor a qualitative researcher... But, what is apparent, is that there is no clear direction at the orphanage. While the children are schooled, housed, and fed, no other needs are attended to, posing huge development problems. Obviously, this is a western view of things. Given that these children are all refugees, all lacking stable homes and/or parents, their basics are covered. Unfortunately, we (being westerners) know that it does take more than the physical to nurture children and to get them to 'thrive'. I don't doubt the commitment of the project director to the children and the surrounding community (sadly, the community is far too reliant on him for monetary donations and assistance, to the point that I would call "abuse" and the 'savior' mentality is still too dominating for him to cut the umbilical cord), but it's obvious there needs to be more. The kids are adorable--while 27 of them live under the care of 3 caretakers, and 1 has TB (non-infectious) and 1 is HIV positive (from his mother), they are remarkably fun. The orphanage is next to a river, which serves as their play /bathing/washing area, and with only a few sets of clothes, and almost no direction (it doesn't appear like anyone tells them to do homework), and only have contact 1-2/x year with their relatives, they're so vibrant.
Most of the children are ethnic Shan, thereby existing in Thailand as unrecognized refugees since they don't qualify to live in refugee camps (and if they did, they've be called 'hill tribes' and have 0 access to anything), and most lack papers. So while, international law governs that all children have access to education, and basic health care (i.e. basic human rights per the 1952 UN refugee accord), they don't have those rights and are routinely denied access by local officials. As I work on a grant, and examine the financial statements, I'm amazed by how much of the budget is allocated to 'school/teacher fees', which are essentially bribes. Although, the upside is that they payments work, all the children are enrolled in school.
In addition to the grant writing, I find myself working on a research study with a fellow columbia (soon to be) alum. We're trying to examine the differences in physical development of these refugees relative to Thai norms, and whether or not the mental stress of refugee status affects their social and mental development. I must say, that as much as I try to run away from research, it always seems to find me.
Another week or so of the simple life--then it's back to the madness of the west!
Monday, February 4, 2008
3 days in...
Thus far, OPC's been interesting. It's always neat to see how something's grown organically, but also as an outsider, to see its faults. On Saturday, we went to interview some of the students who are receiving scholarships from the BRP/OPC collaboration. These are all Burmese refugee children, all of whom are either orphans, from broken homes, or single parent homes. We met two boys, who are ethnically Shan, but were carried over the border when they were younger. Both are in Grade 9, at a local boarding school outside of MHS. We were conducting the interviews in order to send the reports back to their sponsors.
So far, education is much cheaper than in China, and what's unique about the scholarships, is that they're not 100% scholarships (needs assessments are done--some are 100%, but are atypical). The idea behind this is to encourage students to see the value in their education--because it's not a hand out. They have to work for additional funding (which can be done as labor with the organization or a lot of the students work in the garlic fields during their holidays to make up the difference). It seems to be working. In any case, the poor children were petrified of us farang (foreigners) with our laptops asking innocuous questions like "so what's your favorite subject?, what do you want to be when you get older?". As dire as their situation is (some of these kids are here on special visas that don't really provide them with the option to legally work in Thailand), they remain optimistic, which is awesome.
Another girl we interviewed, is currently at the equivalent of Jr. College, studying accounting, and is taking care of her younger siblings, and hoping to be an accountant. For her, she was really concerned whether or not if she wanted to pursue a 4 year degree (and she does) whether or not we would be able to find funding to subsidize her studies.
Today, we took a 2 hour drive up to the burmese border (we couldn't cross) to meet with the KMT village. Apparently, there are a lot of former KMT soldiers living in the hills of Thailand as they tried to escape the communists.
We then met with a small, poor Shan community (elderly) that the project director of OPC tries to help. Unfortunately, it was a classic case of how not to manage a relationship. The root of which, lies in the cultural and communication barriers between people. OPC provided pigs to the community in the hopes of them raising the piggies, selling them, etc, and ensuring a livelihood. Instead, the community ate the pigs, and were now asking for more pigs/money. This is the struggle of NGO's - how to gain population participation and get them to see the long-term, big picture of self-sustainability, versus that of immediate gains. Sadly, this problem exists in ALL types of organizations.
Which is why the scholarship part of the organization seems to do so well. It actually makes the student 'own' a part of their education. Now, if we can just teach them that pigs don't grow on trees....
So far, education is much cheaper than in China, and what's unique about the scholarships, is that they're not 100% scholarships (needs assessments are done--some are 100%, but are atypical). The idea behind this is to encourage students to see the value in their education--because it's not a hand out. They have to work for additional funding (which can be done as labor with the organization or a lot of the students work in the garlic fields during their holidays to make up the difference). It seems to be working. In any case, the poor children were petrified of us farang (foreigners) with our laptops asking innocuous questions like "so what's your favorite subject?, what do you want to be when you get older?". As dire as their situation is (some of these kids are here on special visas that don't really provide them with the option to legally work in Thailand), they remain optimistic, which is awesome.
Another girl we interviewed, is currently at the equivalent of Jr. College, studying accounting, and is taking care of her younger siblings, and hoping to be an accountant. For her, she was really concerned whether or not if she wanted to pursue a 4 year degree (and she does) whether or not we would be able to find funding to subsidize her studies.
Today, we took a 2 hour drive up to the burmese border (we couldn't cross) to meet with the KMT village. Apparently, there are a lot of former KMT soldiers living in the hills of Thailand as they tried to escape the communists.
We then met with a small, poor Shan community (elderly) that the project director of OPC tries to help. Unfortunately, it was a classic case of how not to manage a relationship. The root of which, lies in the cultural and communication barriers between people. OPC provided pigs to the community in the hopes of them raising the piggies, selling them, etc, and ensuring a livelihood. Instead, the community ate the pigs, and were now asking for more pigs/money. This is the struggle of NGO's - how to gain population participation and get them to see the long-term, big picture of self-sustainability, versus that of immediate gains. Sadly, this problem exists in ALL types of organizations.
Which is why the scholarship part of the organization seems to do so well. It actually makes the student 'own' a part of their education. Now, if we can just teach them that pigs don't grow on trees....
Friday, February 1, 2008
OPC
So, after the shortest flight ever (25 minutes) that even served a snack (oh Thai Airways, you are the best), I've arrived in MHS. Or as A describes it, "I'm here to drop you off in the most remote, NW corner of Thailand!" Although, I can actually head a little bit further NW before running into Burma.
Thus far, we've been hit with heavy rains (those same ones that are causing all snow in china), but fortunately, the rain means that there's clean air (rather than smoke filled air). The town isn't quite as 'middle of nowhere' as I thought it'd be--there is a 7/11, internet cafes, but overall its incredibly mellow, with very few cars. After running into my prof at the same guesthouse (I decided to stay there, and out he came! which makes it uber convenient), I'm starting to get a feel for what I'll be doing for the next 2 weeks.
So, I'm working with Opportunity for Poor Children (OPC) a local NGO (although not legally recognized as such, since that requires paperwork, money, and random checks by the police) that works as an orphanage, learning center, and all around resource center for the surrounding Shan and hill tribes. These groups live in the mountains of Thailand as refugees, but without refugee status. Considered 'land-less' and pushed out of their native areas (Burma), they are allowed to live on the land, but can't receive social services or education. Pretty much, they're just allowed to exist. While some are able to obtain yearly work permits, those are few and far between. And even the social services that are provided (if you have the work permit) are often inadequate or require bribes. And, if you're burmese (and there are a lot more here after the September protests) you're pretty much SOL. These groups suffer from the same problems as other marginalized persons (drug and alcohol abuse, teen pregnancy, inadequate vocational training and education, thereby creating a nasty life cycle) despite living in the 'wilderness'. Thus far, I've heard stories about the crazy Farang (foreigner) who came to OPC under the guise of 'helping the orphans', but really created a huge mess by calling the cops on the director (they told the cops that he was hiding burmese refugees)and getting him arrested, which then cost the organization a lot of time, energy and money.
Right now, it looks like I'll be working on grant applications (they operate on close to $35k/year) to secure more funding for education scholarships and health work, and heading out into the field with another medical volunteer to do health assessments with the tribes.
It's kind of nice to be somewhere with a purpose.
Thus far, we've been hit with heavy rains (those same ones that are causing all snow in china), but fortunately, the rain means that there's clean air (rather than smoke filled air). The town isn't quite as 'middle of nowhere' as I thought it'd be--there is a 7/11, internet cafes, but overall its incredibly mellow, with very few cars. After running into my prof at the same guesthouse (I decided to stay there, and out he came! which makes it uber convenient), I'm starting to get a feel for what I'll be doing for the next 2 weeks.
So, I'm working with Opportunity for Poor Children (OPC) a local NGO (although not legally recognized as such, since that requires paperwork, money, and random checks by the police) that works as an orphanage, learning center, and all around resource center for the surrounding Shan and hill tribes. These groups live in the mountains of Thailand as refugees, but without refugee status. Considered 'land-less' and pushed out of their native areas (Burma), they are allowed to live on the land, but can't receive social services or education. Pretty much, they're just allowed to exist. While some are able to obtain yearly work permits, those are few and far between. And even the social services that are provided (if you have the work permit) are often inadequate or require bribes. And, if you're burmese (and there are a lot more here after the September protests) you're pretty much SOL. These groups suffer from the same problems as other marginalized persons (drug and alcohol abuse, teen pregnancy, inadequate vocational training and education, thereby creating a nasty life cycle) despite living in the 'wilderness'. Thus far, I've heard stories about the crazy Farang (foreigner) who came to OPC under the guise of 'helping the orphans', but really created a huge mess by calling the cops on the director (they told the cops that he was hiding burmese refugees)and getting him arrested, which then cost the organization a lot of time, energy and money.
Right now, it looks like I'll be working on grant applications (they operate on close to $35k/year) to secure more funding for education scholarships and health work, and heading out into the field with another medical volunteer to do health assessments with the tribes.
It's kind of nice to be somewhere with a purpose.
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