Fiery Fierceness

Is what I would describe the mosquitoes here. These suckers love to bite... I will definitely not miss them.

After spending the past week and a half in Mae Hong Son, I can see why my professor heads back here every year for 3 months. It's an idyllic life. In a town that adheres to the "early to bed, late to rise" philosophy, I'm ensured 8 hours of rest a night. I'm definitely banking this in preparation for my return to the Western world. My day consists of 1)breakfast and email checking at 1 of 3 local cafes (morning decision = muesli + coffee = Sawadee cafe; bagel + cafe=Cafe Morning; amazing cappucino=cute cafe with no discerning name next to the lake; or, in the event of a morning bike ride = 7/11 for chau sei bao). Next, I will either go for a 2 hour bike ride or we'll go visit a village to do health screenings... The afternoon is spent at the coffee shop, then grant writing... Dinner is lakeside, or at one of the many restaurants, and dessert is 1 of 3 things: the newly discovered ice cream shop, the sweet soybean stand, or roti's with the burmese refugee who happens to have a penchant for whiskey. Then I'm in my room with bbc at 10pm!

These past few days, I've been interviewing the OPC director and office manager to discern key facts for the grant writing process. Unfortunately, I've stumbled into what qualitative academics call "amazing management research." The personality conflict that's brewing at and below the surface is really starting to become clear--sadly, I am not a therapist, nor a qualitative researcher... But, what is apparent, is that there is no clear direction at the orphanage. While the children are schooled, housed, and fed, no other needs are attended to, posing huge development problems. Obviously, this is a western view of things. Given that these children are all refugees, all lacking stable homes and/or parents, their basics are covered. Unfortunately, we (being westerners) know that it does take more than the physical to nurture children and to get them to 'thrive'. I don't doubt the commitment of the project director to the children and the surrounding community (sadly, the community is far too reliant on him for monetary donations and assistance, to the point that I would call "abuse" and the 'savior' mentality is still too dominating for him to cut the umbilical cord), but it's obvious there needs to be more. The kids are adorable--while 27 of them live under the care of 3 caretakers, and 1 has TB (non-infectious) and 1 is HIV positive (from his mother), they are remarkably fun. The orphanage is next to a river, which serves as their play /bathing/washing area, and with only a few sets of clothes, and almost no direction (it doesn't appear like anyone tells them to do homework), and only have contact 1-2/x year with their relatives, they're so vibrant.

Most of the children are ethnic Shan, thereby existing in Thailand as unrecognized refugees since they don't qualify to live in refugee camps (and if they did, they've be called 'hill tribes' and have 0 access to anything), and most lack papers. So while, international law governs that all children have access to education, and basic health care (i.e. basic human rights per the 1952 UN refugee accord), they don't have those rights and are routinely denied access by local officials. As I work on a grant, and examine the financial statements, I'm amazed by how much of the budget is allocated to 'school/teacher fees', which are essentially bribes. Although, the upside is that they payments work, all the children are enrolled in school.

In addition to the grant writing, I find myself working on a research study with a fellow columbia (soon to be) alum. We're trying to examine the differences in physical development of these refugees relative to Thai norms, and whether or not the mental stress of refugee status affects their social and mental development. I must say, that as much as I try to run away from research, it always seems to find me.

Another week or so of the simple life--then it's back to the madness of the west!